The Fanatec Support thread - Page 10

redi · 30 June 12, 13:17

Ako · 2 July 12, 14:21

The mic socket on my Turbo S is dodgy, although its over 2yrs old i've only just started using it on the 360, i'm using a GXP headset that has the 2.5 plug, but while i'm driving the rumble from the FFB makes the plug move and i get bad feedback through the headset, the plug does feel a bit to loose and it doesn't like click in like on my pc case.

Any suggestions for fixing this would be very helpful.

thx, Ako

coolingthunder · 2 July 12, 16:22

Hello, could it be that with driver 129 the option to set center-spring is gone? I can't find it anymore and I liked it a lot...

max attack · 3 July 12, 08:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolingthunder

Hello, could it be that with driver 129 the option to set center-spring is gone? I can't find it anymore and I liked it a lot...

What wheel do you have?

coolingthunder · 4 July 12, 09:42

fanatec gt3rs v2, and with the driver that you can download from the fanatec support page itself, it does have the center spring option, and that worked just fine. Had some problems with that though, and now I'm using that beta version. Could that be the reason?

juankyskys · 4 July 12, 12:56

Hi boys,
I had standard pedals, fail, then fanatec upgrade me to CSP, fail, send me replacement to cluch sensor, brake load cell and PCB ( brake vibre ) and after 2 months...another time it´s broked and i cannot run in my free time like holidays.
My question, i know that a lot of people upgrade their pedals since standard. Could be downgraded sensor´s quality in CSP? Anyone knows how many weight works with brake`s load cell?

max attack · 4 July 12, 22:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by coolingthunder

fanatec gt3rs v2, and with the driver that you can download from the fanatec support page itself, it does have the center spring option, and that worked just fine. Had some problems with that though, and now I'm using that beta version. Could that be the reason?

It could be.
Can you set the center spring in game?

max attack · 4 July 12, 22:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by juankyskys

Hi boys,
I had standard pedals, fail, then fanatec upgrade me to CSP, fail, send me replacement to cluch sensor, brake load cell and PCB ( brake vibre ) and after 2 months...another time it´s broked and i cannot run in my free time like holidays.
My question, i know that a lot of people upgrade their pedals since standard. Could be downgraded sensor´s quality in CSP? Anyone knows how many weight works with brake`s load cell?

Wow, You really have had some bad luck, and on your holidays too

. It happened to me once with a logitech wheel and I hated it.
How do you go with other hardware like your computer? I'm just wondering if something may of caused all this bad luck. Like the power supply to your house.
As far as I know you can press a loadcell very hard without breaking it.

coolingthunder · 5 July 12, 08:25

@ max attack I've been looking in race07, pCARS, and dirt 1-2-3, but I couldn't find that option... Or maybe I just overlooked it

juankyskys · 5 July 12, 22:18

Quote:

driver 129

In this beta driver, Fanatec get out center spring.
You can use logitech G27 drivers too, i make so for play old games and another no compatibles with him.

Now driving with pad another time max attack, until they repair my CSP or better if they could upgrade sensors quality.

coolingthunder · 6 July 12, 07:46

Oh, I see. Is there any chance of this coming back? Because without it, games like dirt 1,2 or 3 are completely unplayable for me, since I can't turn the wheel that fast.

juankyskys · 6 July 12, 08:37

Quote:

unplayable for me

*Using logitech drivers in fanatec:
Deinstall fanatec drivers.
Turn on your fanatec wheel and put it PS3 mode.
Install logitech G27 drivers.
All these when you want to play in logitech compability.

HydroPT · 6 July 12, 15:23

Hi guys!

I recently got a Fanatec wheel, which unfortunately is giving me some headaches.

It's the Porsche 911 Carrera wheel, but for some reason I can't use it properly in Race 07 (haven't tried other games). I will try to describe the problem as best as possible. I'm using drivers 115.

Windows settings:

Autocenter spring: YES
Wheel angle: 240º
Dampening strength: 100%
Combined pedals: NO

When I plug the UBS and turn the wheel on, after the calibration is complete, the wheel will automatically return to the centre if I turn it either to the left or the right.

As soon as I start Race 07, the wheel will have two very different behaviours, but I don't know what's causing each one.

1. The wheel won't return to the centre automatically anymore, even if I'm just in the menu. I can feel when I reach the 240º degrees limit, the wheel will shake and rumble, and it takes a lot of force to make it go past the 240º.

2. The wheel will return to the centre automatically, whether I'm in the menu or driving. I cannot feel anymore when I reach the 240 degrees limit, the wheel will not shake/rumble, and it doesn't take any more force to go past 240º. It's the same.

These two behaviours happen whenever I go to the controls in Race 07. Even if I don't change a thing, the wheel will assume one of the two behaviours above. I honestly can't understand this and it is driving me mad! I want the wheel to return to the centre, but I also want to feel when I reach the 240º degrees limit. Also, the FFB seems to be much different. Stronger and more precise in 2, looser in 1.

If anybody has a suggestion about this problem, I would appreciate. I don't know where to download other drivers, tbh, Fanatec's website is a complete mess, and I also don't know where to get another firmware in case this is a firmware problem.

coolingthunder · 8 July 12, 10:26

Did you try the latest available drivers? driver 129http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/8609 and for the firmware you have to contact their support to get the latest "final" FW (site is down now though) OR just use google for the FW and the drivers? Remember, google is your friend!

anyway, this is the latest FW I could find: http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/4349

epicname · 9 July 12, 20:50

yo just a quick question.

ive just bought a gt3rs wheel with the fanatec shifters. gt legends doesnt seem to recognise 5th gear on the h shifter. 1st to 4th are fine.
it works fine in gtr2 thats the only other game ive tested it on just now. and the shifter seems ok in the profiler. i am using the beta drivers as the fanatec site was down the day the wheel arrived so im not sure if its this or not.
a point in the right direction would be good thanks

frenchfly · 9 July 12, 23:42

Hi epic I had this same problem when I got my CSR (regular) wheel, the only thing that fixed it for me was to put my wheel in PS3 mode which the pc recognizes as a Logitech g25 wheel. Make sure you unplug the usb before putting it into PS3 mode or else the fanatec drivers will kick in before you get the chance to do so. By the way I always run in PS3 mode on the pc, FFB is good and I never have problems. You won't have to use the dreaded logitech profiler to configure your wheel as this can all be done in the games controller area in windows, just right click on g25 and go into properties to set wheel rotation and FFB settings.

Hope this helps

F

epicname · 10 July 12, 11:51

cool mate i'll give it a try thanks

Ako · 18 July 12, 18:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ako

The mic socket on my Turbo S is dodgy, although its over 2yrs old i've only just started using it on the 360, i'm using a GXP headset that has the 2.5 plug, but while i'm driving the rumble from the FFB makes the plug move and i get bad feedback through the headset, the plug does feel a bit to loose and it doesn't like click in like on my pc case.

Any suggestions for fixing this would be very helpful.

thx, Ako

bump

redi · 18 July 12, 20:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ako

The mic socket on my Turbo S is dodgy, although its over 2yrs old i've only just started using it on the 360, i'm using a GXP headset that has the 2.5 plug, but while i'm driving the rumble from the FFB makes the plug move and i get bad feedback through the headset, the plug does feel a bit to loose and it doesn't like click in like on my pc case.

Any suggestions for fixing this would be very helpful.

thx, Ako

I haven't seen this before, but I'll ask around. I'll let you know.

Ako · 18 July 12, 20:53

Thx Redi

if i fiddle with it then its ok for a bit, but while racing it often starts buzzing again. i don't mind fixing it myself, just looking for any info before i take the top off.

John DiFool · 29 July 12, 21:42

I'll be driving along, and all of a sudden the wheel will completely lose all force-feedback. [Sadly, it is impossible to reinitialize the wheel within the game as the game won't then recognize the wheel.] This has happened 3 times at the Targa Florio, and once at the Nurburgring (so twisty corners galore), so could it be an overheating issue? If so is there a way to clean the unit so that it doesn't overheat? Or could it be something else?

Siggs · 29 July 12, 22:41

You could force the fan on permanently in the wheels firmware to test out your theory. I forget how to exactly.

redi · 30 July 12, 08:03

After the wheel's autocalbiration when it shows '---' on the LCS, press and hold the four lower buttons on the horizontal spoke of the wheel. The LCD will show the firmware version and then 'On' to indicate that the fans are permanently on.

You could also try to lower the FFB strength on the wheel or in the game to see if this changes the FFB drop-out behaviour.

DurgeDriven · 1 August 12, 22:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by HydroPT

Wheel angle: 240º

1. I can feel when I reach the 240º degrees limit, the wheel will shake and rumble, and it takes a lot of force to make it go past the 240º.
:

You don't want to force it past the selected rotation ! omg

If you have done this racing without thinking about it possible you could have done damage.

I know a fella did the same thing with Carrera in F12010 kept over rotating and straining wheel.

240 is a woefully small lock and would be easy to bang on the rotation limit.

You seriously do not want to exert alot of force or heavy hands with a Carrera, trust me.

DurgeDriven · 1 August 12, 22:22

On to my problem :p

1. I replacing load-cell in CSP and need the size of the smallest allen key ie: ones that
remove the load-cell. I have the other 3 ...typical. lol

2. What replacement oil is good to use, I believe light bicycle oil is okay ?

3. I notice the lubricant for the foam insert is different.

4. Should I shave each end of the foam to bevel as suggested.

5. Method for lubricating brake block ( tutorials I have seen are very sketchy ) Can't find a uboob on it.

I assuming a very light coating on pedal / rod

Thanks

EDIT: Solved.

1. Allen Key is 2.5mm

2. I used sewing machine oil

3. Foam I used same oil

4. Never worried about shaving the foam as ends still feel pretty solid

5. I cleaned the block and lightly oiled just the brake rods.

Feels like new

redi · 2 August 12, 08:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by DurgeDriven

On to my problem :p

1. I replacing load-cell in CSP and need the size of the smallest allen key ie: ones that
remove the load-cell. I have the other 3 ...typical. lol

2. What replacement oil is good to use, I believe light bicycle oil is okay ?

3. I notice the lubricant for the foam insert is different.

4. Should I shave each end of the foam to bevel as suggested.

5. Method for lubricating brake block ( tutorials I have seen are very sketchy ) Can't find a uboob on it.

I assuming a very light coating on pedal / rod

Thanks

EDIT: Solved.

1. Allen Key is 2.5mm

2. I used sewing machine oil

3. Foam I used same oil

4. Never worried about shaving the foam as ends still feel pretty solid

5. I cleaned the block and lightly oiled just the brake rods.

Feels like new

Good to see you got it all covered yourself

Some remarks:

- lubricants are still not standardized unfortunately, but a slightly thicker oil like the one you used or bicycle chain oil should do the trick

- shaving the foams is recommended to lengthen the lifetime and to prevent the foam edges getting stuck between rod and cylinder that may impact the smoothness of the pedal

DurgeDriven · 2 August 12, 08:42

Thanks Redi

I am purchasing spare load-cells and tuning kit hopefully next week and will do the foam.

max attack · 2 August 12, 09:54

I wouldn't use a light oil that gets sold in a bike shop unless you are certian its going to be fully compatable with the materials used in the unit itself. For instance, if you use the wrong oil in some things it can swell up o-rings and seals. I would use an "air-oil" the type you would use in an air tool. Air oil is made to be compatable with most industrial applications and wont harm most rings, seals or materials.

Same goes with greese, use one that is compatable with the materials its going to work with. Avoid petroleum based greese.
You did asume right, A light coat on rod should do the trick.
hope that helps.

mov|ng-target · 2 August 12, 18:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by John DiFool

I'll be driving along, and all of a sudden the wheel will completely lose all force-feedback. [Sadly, it is impossible to reinitialize the wheel within the game as the game won't then recognize the wheel.] This has happened 3 times at the Targa Florio, and once at the Nurburgring (so twisty corners galore), so could it be an overheating issue? If so is there a way to clean the unit so that it doesn't overheat? Or could it be something else?

I have the same problem. In addition the wheel calibrates 360 degrees off centre. I took some time to look through the support thread but I did not find a workaround for my problem.

(Fanatec GT2 wheel).

max attack · 2 August 12, 22:47

Durge, the oil Frex use is Silicone oil.

redi · 3 August 12, 10:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by mov|ng-target

I have the same problem. In addition the wheel calibrates 360 degrees off centre. I took some time to look through the support thread but I did not find a workaround for my problem.

(Fanatec GT2 wheel).

If you re-assign the wheel center manually, does the autocalibration work correctly after that? If not, then you probably have a faulty codewheel sensor in the wheel and you'll need to contact Fanatec Support to get a replacement.

mov|ng-target · 3 August 12, 17:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by redi

If you re-assign the wheel center manually, does the autocalibration work correctly after that? If not, then you probably have a faulty codewheel sensor in the wheel and you'll need to contact Fanatec Support to get a replacement.

As I turned on my GT2 to re-assign the wheel center manually, it calibrated correctly.

Restarted the wheel 5 times but the calibration-error seems to be gone.
Thanks for your quick reply, I will keep your advice in mind for the next time the error occurs.

qntje · 10 August 12, 18:55

Hi,

Recently I've got several problems with my GT3 RSv2 and ClubSport Pedal set, maybe you guys can help me out!

When the wheel and pedals are connected with the PS/2 connector the signal of the wheel and the pedals drops randomly within 5 minutes time. I can restart the wheel but the problem simply re-occurs.

I'm running with the latest beta drivers and firmware. I've also tried driver 115 and 681 firmware but then after only 2 minutes the force feedback just simply loses all it's power (and I'm driving with 50% FFB force already).

The problem does not occur when connecting the pedals with the USB connector but I would like to have it work when the pedals are directly connected to to wheel for the brake vibration function.

Does this mean my wheel is slowly dying after only 6 months of regular use? I have had several problems before (the fans inside the wheel have already been replaced although they are started to make a lot of noise once again).

Hope someone can help me out.

Thanks in advance!

redi · 10 August 12, 21:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by qntje

Hi,

Recently I've got several problems with my GT3 RSv2 and ClubSport Pedal set, maybe you guys can help me out!

When the wheel and pedals are connected with the PS/2 connector the signal of the wheel and the pedals drops randomly within 5 minutes time. I can restart the wheel but the problem simply re-occurs.

I'm running with the latest beta drivers and firmware. I've also tried driver 115 and 681 firmware but then after only 2 minutes the force feedback just simply loses all it's power (and I'm driving with 50% FFB force already).

The problem does not occur when connecting the pedals with the USB connector but I would like to have it work when the pedals are directly connected to to wheel for the brake vibration function.

Does this mean my wheel is slowly dying after only 6 months of regular use? I have had several problems before (the fans inside the wheel have already been replaced although they are started to make a lot of noise once again).

Hope someone can help me out.

Thanks in advance!

So is the FFB loss only occurring when the pedals are connected to the wheel? If the wheel fans make a lot of noise they need to be replaced.

It's best to contact Fanatec support (http://fanatec.de/html/index.php?id=330&lang=en) to get everything sorted.

porph · 11 August 12, 23:31

I have a GT3 RS V2 wheel and randomly during use it will re-align centre at either the 11:30 or 12:30 (approx) position..

I only play iRacing currently so have no idea if it is solely within this game. I can fix it by re-calibrating in game but obviously if I am mid-race this is no good.. Is this a known issue?

redi · 12 August 12, 13:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by porph

I have a GT3 RS V2 wheel and randomly during use it will re-align centre at either the 11:30 or 12:30 (approx) position..

I only play iRacing currently so have no idea if it is solely within this game. I can fix it by re-calibrating in game but obviously if I am mid-race this is no good.. Is this a known issue?

Sounds like the codewheel sensor or codehweel is bad (probably the sensor). Contact Fanatec Support, if possible with a short video, and they'll send you a replacement part.

porph · 17 August 12, 12:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by redi

Sounds like the codewheel sensor or codehweel is bad (probably the sensor). Contact Fanatec Support, if possible with a short video, and they'll send you a replacement part.

Thanks. I have contacted Fanatec and they have (within a day of my initial email) sent out a new sensor so hopefully this will do the trick. Other than this problem the wheel and clubsport pedals have been very good.

gears · 25 August 12, 14:48

New firmware and drivers are out:

http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/8947

*Warning*

The GT3RS v2 package contains the wrong firmware. It's for the GT2. Many people have reported this, but they haven't fixed it yet.

Xtra · 27 August 12, 20:44

The firmware for GT3RS V2 is now updated. So actually it's the proper one...

aviphysics · 28 August 12, 17:29

I got my CSR value pack (vanilla version) yesterday.

First thing I did was update to 750B FW and install matching drivers.

In Shift 2 I didn't get any FFB. I tried setting it up as a custom wheel and also as a 911 wheel. The FFB slider I set to 100%.

I also found that adjusting the dampening slider in the control panel didn't seem to do anything at the desktop or in games.

In DIRT 3 the wheel seemed to work perfectly, though I couldn't tell if it was applying dampening or if that was just the mechanical steering resistance. The dampening slider did not seem to effect this game.

Any ideas on what this could be?

System is running Win7 64bit. Before this I had a G27 I was using with the same saved game. I did notice that there were some items left in the device list after uninstalling the LPS for the G27. Currently doing a fresh install of windows, switching out my fancy logitech mouse for a basic mouse and starting a new saved game to eliminate as many variables as possible, but would appreciate any other advice in the mean time.

redi · 28 August 12, 18:35

Not sure what the problem is in Shift 2, but damper is usually not used in PC games, and neither is spring.

aviphysics · 28 August 12, 19:58

So does the dampening Slider in the Windows control panel not serve any function? It is right under the wheel angle slider. It looks like this... (though I don't think it has the centering spring check box, will have to check when I get home)

(I just grabbed this off the web so the driver version is probably different in the picture. The sliders look the same though)
Edit: Found a closer picture

redi · 29 August 12, 13:05

It has a function, but it's not a hardware damper. It only has an effect if games actually use the damper functionality.

aviphysics · 29 August 12, 13:41

Running a fresh install of Windows, with nothing but DirectX, Shift 2, and only the necessary drivers, FFB still did not work.

I gave up and switched to PS3 mode with the Logitech software and that worked great. Will just not worry about the Fanatec drivers for now, unless anyone is aware of a downside to PS3 mode.

JonP01 · 6 October 12, 14:55

Hi,

I recently upgraded the firmware of my 911GT3 V2 wheel to 750B and the drivers to 140. Previously I was running the factory firmware and 115 drivers. Whilst I can certainly say that the new firmware and drivers create an absolutely fantastic force feedback experience (best I have ever felt bar none and a huge improvement over the factory firmware and drivers), there seems to be a new problem that I never had before.

What is happening is that within the first 5 minutes of using the wheel during a game, I will experience two brief pauses in the gameplay itself. These pauses are exactly like traditional "freezes" except that the machine recovers within about 1 to 2 seconds each time. So the game will simply pause for about 2 seconds after around 5 minutes, then there will be another 8 - 10 seconds of normal gameplay followed by the second pause, again lasting around 1 - 2 seconds. And it is always these two pauses that happen and always within the first 5 minutes or so - not just one pause. Obviously this is very annoying given that these pauses are happening in the middle of a race.

At first I thought it was something to do with my software configuration, or even a hardware issue. But I have eliminated software problems by reverting back to a complete hard drive image I made back in July this year when this problem was never occuring (and in NFS Shift 2, for example, I played the game for a whole year on this exact same hardware and the pause issues never, ever happened).

Then I tried substituting other hardware (I suspected my SSD, for example) but the pause problem remains. So I know I have a software image that does not have this "fault" and my hardware checks out OK. So this leaves only one variable - the 750B firmware upgrade (I tried the 750B firmare with the old 115 drivers but the pauses keep happening) since the 750B firmware upgrade is the only difference between my machine today and my machine back in July.

So I can only come to one conclusion: that is there is something strange about the new 750B firmware that is causing my racing games to freeze twice within the first 5 minutes of gameplay (after which they play fine, even for hours on end).

Is this a known issue with the firmware upgrades? I did come across a post via a google search that claimed people were having fan and "pause" issues with the new firmware but I haven't really found anything much more than that (or even an explanation), and the Fanatec website seems poorly organised as far as searching for answers is concerned.

I would like to try and go back to my original factory firmare if only to try and verify that it is indeed 750B causing these problems, but is this possible and how can I do it?

In any event, I would like to add this pausing problem as a possible issue related to the latest firmware, simply because I have been able to eliminate every other variable after a weeks worth of testing on my PC.

redi · 7 October 12, 18:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonP01

Hi,

I recently upgraded the firmware of my 911GT3 V2 wheel to 750B and the drivers to 140. Previously I was running the factory firmware and 115 drivers. Whilst I can certainly say that the new firmware and drivers create an absolutely fantastic force feedback experience (best I have ever felt bar none and a huge improvement over the factory firmware and drivers), there seems to be a new problem that I never had before.

What is happening is that within the first 5 minutes of using the wheel during a game, I will experience two brief pauses in the gameplay itself. These pauses are exactly like traditional "freezes" except that the machine recovers within about 1 to 2 seconds each time. So the game will simply pause for about 2 seconds after around 5 minutes, then there will be another 8 - 10 seconds of normal gameplay followed by the second pause, again lasting around 1 - 2 seconds. And it is always these two pauses that happen and always within the first 5 minutes or so - not just one pause. Obviously this is very annoying given that these pauses are happening in the middle of a race.

At first I thought it was something to do with my software configuration, or even a hardware issue. But I have eliminated software problems by reverting back to a complete hard drive image I made back in July this year when this problem was never occuring (and in NFS Shift 2, for example, I played the game for a whole year on this exact same hardware and the pause issues never, ever happened).

Then I tried substituting other hardware (I suspected my SSD, for example) but the pause problem remains. So I know I have a software image that does not have this "fault" and my hardware checks out OK. So this leaves only one variable - the 750B firmware upgrade (I tried the 750B firmare with the old 115 drivers but the pauses keep happening) since the 750B firmware upgrade is the only difference between my machine today and my machine back in July.

So I can only come to one conclusion: that is there is something strange about the new 750B firmware that is causing my racing games to freeze twice within the first 5 minutes of gameplay (after which they play fine, even for hours on end).

Is this a known issue with the firmware upgrades? I did come across a post via a google search that claimed people were having fan and "pause" issues with the new firmware but I haven't really found anything much more than that (or even an explanation), and the Fanatec website seems poorly organised as far as searching for answers is concerned.

I would like to try and go back to my original factory firmare if only to try and verify that it is indeed 750B causing these problems, but is this possible and how can I do it?

In any event, I would like to add this pausing problem as a possible issue related to the latest firmware, simply because I have been able to eliminate every other variable after a weeks worth of testing on my PC.

Thanks for reporting, I'll ask around.

redi · 8 October 12, 07:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonP01

Hi,

I recently upgraded the firmware of my 911GT3 V2 wheel to 750B and the drivers to 140. Previously I was running the factory firmware and 115 drivers. Whilst I can certainly say that the new firmware and drivers create an absolutely fantastic force feedback experience (best I have ever felt bar none and a huge improvement over the factory firmware and drivers), there seems to be a new problem that I never had before.

What is happening is that within the first 5 minutes of using the wheel during a game, I will experience two brief pauses in the gameplay itself. These pauses are exactly like traditional "freezes" except that the machine recovers within about 1 to 2 seconds each time. So the game will simply pause for about 2 seconds after around 5 minutes, then there will be another 8 - 10 seconds of normal gameplay followed by the second pause, again lasting around 1 - 2 seconds. And it is always these two pauses that happen and always within the first 5 minutes or so - not just one pause. Obviously this is very annoying given that these pauses are happening in the middle of a race.

At first I thought it was something to do with my software configuration, or even a hardware issue. But I have eliminated software problems by reverting back to a complete hard drive image I made back in July this year when this problem was never occuring (and in NFS Shift 2, for example, I played the game for a whole year on this exact same hardware and the pause issues never, ever happened).

Then I tried substituting other hardware (I suspected my SSD, for example) but the pause problem remains. So I know I have a software image that does not have this "fault" and my hardware checks out OK. So this leaves only one variable - the 750B firmware upgrade (I tried the 750B firmare with the old 115 drivers but the pauses keep happening) since the 750B firmware upgrade is the only difference between my machine today and my machine back in July.

So I can only come to one conclusion: that is there is something strange about the new 750B firmware that is causing my racing games to freeze twice within the first 5 minutes of gameplay (after which they play fine, even for hours on end).

Is this a known issue with the firmware upgrades? I did come across a post via a google search that claimed people were having fan and "pause" issues with the new firmware but I haven't really found anything much more than that (or even an explanation), and the Fanatec website seems poorly organised as far as searching for answers is concerned.

I would like to try and go back to my original factory firmare if only to try and verify that it is indeed 750B causing these problems, but is this possible and how can I do it?

In any event, I would like to add this pausing problem as a possible issue related to the latest firmware, simply because I have been able to eliminate every other variable after a weeks worth of testing on my PC.

This appears to be a strange issue and it's the first of this kind reported. With FW750, the FFB update rate was increased significantly, perhaps your PC's USB controller has problems with this. To check this you could try using the wheel on another PC or install a separate PCI USB controller.

If needed, I can send you the link to the previous firmware.

JonP01 · 10 October 12, 15:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by redi

This appears to be a strange issue and it's the first of this kind reported. With FW750, the FFB update rate was increased significantly, perhaps your PC's USB controller has problems with this. To check this you could try using the wheel on another PC or install a separate PCI USB controller.

If needed, I can send you the link to the previous firmware.

Yes, and it gets even stranger. Despite not having this problem with the older July disk image, I decided to reload my entire OS from scratch anyway, as well as NFS Shift 2, but with the exact same files (from my Documents folder), for NFS Shift 2 - so the config was exactly the same. This included identical wheel settings in both hardware and in drivers (and game of course).

After several days testing, I have not been able to reproduce the freezing / pause problem, however, the force feedback now feels quite different to what it was when I did have the freezing / pause problem. In short, it does not feel as good - mainly because there is a larger deadzone of forcefeedback from centre position and some forces are completely missing that were reproduced before (such as the torque "kick" from the engine / transmission when putting the car into 1st gear). Also, the overall feedback response seems more damped than before.

So this is really quite bizarre. I am using precisely the same software settings and config files as for my July disk image, but the force feedback does not feel the same (or as good). But at least it is still noticebly better than the original firmware and 115 drivers (I am especially happy that the drift mode now works properly up to level 5, whereas before it felt really strange at anything above 2). So now the wheel is as "fast" as old my Logitech G25.

The only differences that I can see from my July image are that I never loaded any driver for the wheel apart from 140 and I have not connected my Logitech rumblepad (that I use for flight sims). I also refrained from performing any Windows updates post service pack 1 as there is a suspicion in my mind that some Windows update caused the problem (the computer is only used for games and is not normally connected to the net, so I dont consider updates to be critical).

Anyway, I guess I will live with this as this was a completely clean install and I cannot find any reason for the larger deadzone from centre, nor why some forces are missing and others damped down. Still better than the original though.

robrace · 19 October 12, 09:14

To all fellow South African Simracers
I have just acquired my Fanatec Clubsport base, BMW GT2 wheel and V2 pedal set. As Fanatec is not represented in South Africa, I got it through a on-line store website: www.importitall.co.za from the States with excellent courier rates!
In order to make use of the LED's for GTL / GTR2 / rFactor / rfactor2 for e.g., a plugin is available from: fanaleds.idrift.nl which works well in that it indicates amongst others the gear and shift point using flashing characters [ ]
I am in the process of fine tuning all the settings on it and 'in-game' but I must say that straight out of the box so to speak, the build quality and force feedback is superior to the previous wheel I had being a Logitech G25.
I am finding that the racing is more immersive and that you can be quicker in lap times due to I would say the feedback from the wheel.
Cheers!

porph · 24 October 12, 12:15

Is it just me or is the Fanatec software abysmal? I just got a new machine and installed me GT3 RS again.. I installed the driver yet I have no idea where the actual config software is. No other manufacturer makes it this challenging.

Not only that but my wheel was defective from the start and I was just sent a replacement part with instructions to fix it that I imagine only a professional electronic engineer or someone with far more time on their hands than I have could ever manage.

As it is my current problem is that an extreme level of self centreing seems to have kicked in now, the wheel feels horrible to use and is clearly not setup right.

Can anyone please enlighten me as to how to set this damn thing up again? I'm about 30 minutes from chucking the piece of crap out the window.

30 June 12, 13:17	#451
redi Superator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: On a thin crust covering a huge ball of hot molten stone whizzing through space Age: 40	Driver 129 available.

9 July 12, 20:50	#465
epicname Donated Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Scotland Age: 32	GT3RS wheel and h shifter yo just a quick question. ive just bought a gt3rs wheel with the fanatec shifters. gt legends doesnt seem to recognise 5th gear on the h shifter. 1st to 4th are fine. it works fine in gtr2 thats the only other game ive tested it on just now. and the shifter seems ok in the profiler. i am using the beta drivers as the fanatec site was down the day the wheel arrived so im not sure if its this or not. a point in the right direction would be good thanks

29 July 12, 21:42	#471
John DiFool Join Date: Nov 2009	Porsche 911 GT2 - FF cuts out after about an hour or so (rF1) I'll be driving along, and all of a sudden the wheel will completely lose all force-feedback. [Sadly, it is impossible to reinitialize the wheel within the game as the game won't then recognize the wheel.] This has happened 3 times at the Targa Florio, and once at the Nurburgring (so twisty corners galore), so could it be an overheating issue? If so is there a way to clean the unit so that it doesn't overheat? Or could it be something else?

1 August 12, 22:22	#475
DurgeDriven Join Date: Jan 2011	On to my problem :p 1. I replacing load-cell in CSP and need the size of the smallest allen key ie: ones that remove the load-cell. I have the other 3 ...typical. lol 2. What replacement oil is good to use, I believe light bicycle oil is okay ? 3. I notice the lubricant for the foam insert is different. 4. Should I shave each end of the foam to bevel as suggested. 5. Method for lubricating brake block ( tutorials I have seen are very sketchy ) Can't find a uboob on it. I assuming a very light coating on pedal / rod Thanks EDIT: Solved. 1. Allen Key is 2.5mm 2. I used sewing machine oil 3. Foam I used same oil 4. Never worried about shaving the foam as ends still feel pretty solid 5. I cleaned the block and lightly oiled just the brake rods. Feels like new Last edited by DurgeDriven; 2 August 12 at 02:00.

25 August 12, 14:48	#488
gears Donated Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Higgs Boson Age: 45	New firmware and drivers are out: http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/8947 *Warning* The GT3RS v2 package contains the wrong firmware. It's for the GT2. Many people have reported this, but they haven't fixed it yet. Last edited by gears; 25 August 12 at 16:52.

2 July 12, 14:21	#452
Ako Join Date: Mar 2007	The mic socket on my Turbo S is dodgy, although its over 2yrs old i've only just started using it on the 360, i'm using a GXP headset that has the 2.5 plug, but while i'm driving the rumble from the FFB makes the plug move and i get bad feedback through the headset, the plug does feel a bit to loose and it doesn't like click in like on my pc case. Any suggestions for fixing this would be very helpful. thx, Ako

2 July 12, 16:22	#453
coolingthunder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Belgium, near the circuit of zolder	Hello, could it be that with driver 129 the option to set center-spring is gone? I can't find it anymore and I liked it a lot...

4 July 12, 09:42	#455
coolingthunder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Belgium, near the circuit of zolder	fanatec gt3rs v2, and with the driver that you can download from the fanatec support page itself, it does have the center spring option, and that worked just fine. Had some problems with that though, and now I'm using that beta version. Could that be the reason?

4 July 12, 12:56	#456
juankyskys Join Date: Mar 2011	Hi boys, I had standard pedals, fail, then fanatec upgrade me to CSP, fail, send me replacement to cluch sensor, brake load cell and PCB ( brake vibre ) and after 2 months...another time it´s broked and i cannot run in my free time like holidays. My question, i know that a lot of people upgrade their pedals since standard. Could be downgraded sensor´s quality in CSP? Anyone knows how many weight works with brake`s load cell?

5 July 12, 08:25	#459
coolingthunder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Belgium, near the circuit of zolder	@ max attack I've been looking in race07, pCARS, and dirt 1-2-3, but I couldn't find that option... Or maybe I just overlooked it

6 July 12, 07:46	#461
coolingthunder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Belgium, near the circuit of zolder	Oh, I see. Is there any chance of this coming back? Because without it, games like dirt 1,2 or 3 are completely unplayable for me, since I can't turn the wheel that fast.

6 July 12, 15:23	#463
HydroPT Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Portugal Age: 22	Hi guys! I recently got a Fanatec wheel, which unfortunately is giving me some headaches. It's the Porsche 911 Carrera wheel, but for some reason I can't use it properly in Race 07 (haven't tried other games). I will try to describe the problem as best as possible. I'm using drivers 115. Windows settings: Autocenter spring: YES Wheel angle: 240º Dampening strength: 100% Combined pedals: NO When I plug the UBS and turn the wheel on, after the calibration is complete, the wheel will automatically return to the centre if I turn it either to the left or the right. As soon as I start Race 07, the wheel will have two very different behaviours, but I don't know what's causing each one. 1. The wheel won't return to the centre automatically anymore, even if I'm just in the menu. I can feel when I reach the 240º degrees limit, the wheel will shake and rumble, and it takes a lot of force to make it go past the 240º. 2. The wheel will return to the centre automatically, whether I'm in the menu or driving. I cannot feel anymore when I reach the 240 degrees limit, the wheel will not shake/rumble, and it doesn't take any more force to go past 240º. It's the same. These two behaviours happen whenever I go to the controls in Race 07. Even if I don't change a thing, the wheel will assume one of the two behaviours above. I honestly can't understand this and it is driving me mad! I want the wheel to return to the centre, but I also want to feel when I reach the 240º degrees limit. Also, the FFB seems to be much different. Stronger and more precise in 2, looser in 1. If anybody has a suggestion about this problem, I would appreciate. I don't know where to download other drivers, tbh, Fanatec's website is a complete mess, and I also don't know where to get another firmware in case this is a firmware problem.

8 July 12, 10:26	#464
coolingthunder Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Belgium, near the circuit of zolder	Did you try the latest available drivers? driver 129http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/8609 and for the firmware you have to contact their support to get the latest "final" FW (site is down now though) OR just use google for the FW and the drivers? Remember, google is your friend! anyway, this is the latest FW I could find: http://www.911wheel.de/?q=node/4349

9 July 12, 23:42	#466
frenchfly Join Date: Apr 2011	Hi epic I had this same problem when I got my CSR (regular) wheel, the only thing that fixed it for me was to put my wheel in PS3 mode which the pc recognizes as a Logitech g25 wheel. Make sure you unplug the usb before putting it into PS3 mode or else the fanatec drivers will kick in before you get the chance to do so. By the way I always run in PS3 mode on the pc, FFB is good and I never have problems. You won't have to use the dreaded logitech profiler to configure your wheel as this can all be done in the games controller area in windows, just right click on g25 and go into properties to set wheel rotation and FFB settings. Hope this helps F

10 July 12, 11:51	#467
epicname Donated Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Scotland Age: 32	cool mate i'll give it a try thanks

18 July 12, 20:53	#470
Ako Join Date: Mar 2007	Thx Redi if i fiddle with it then its ok for a bit, but while racing it often starts buzzing again. i don't mind fixing it myself, just looking for any info before i take the top off.

29 July 12, 22:41	#472
Siggs Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Coventry Age: 22	You could force the fan on permanently in the wheels firmware to test out your theory. I forget how to exactly.

30 July 12, 08:03	#473
redi Superator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: On a thin crust covering a huge ball of hot molten stone whizzing through space Age: 40	After the wheel's autocalbiration when it shows '---' on the LCS, press and hold the four lower buttons on the horizontal spoke of the wheel. The LCD will show the firmware version and then 'On' to indicate that the fans are permanently on. You could also try to lower the FFB strength on the wheel or in the game to see if this changes the FFB drop-out behaviour.

2 August 12, 08:42	#477
DurgeDriven Join Date: Jan 2011	Thanks Redi I am purchasing spare load-cells and tuning kit hopefully next week and will do the foam.

2 August 12, 09:54	#478
max attack Donated Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Melbourne Age: 47	I wouldn't use a light oil that gets sold in a bike shop unless you are certian its going to be fully compatable with the materials used in the unit itself. For instance, if you use the wrong oil in some things it can swell up o-rings and seals. I would use an "air-oil" the type you would use in an air tool. Air oil is made to be compatable with most industrial applications and wont harm most rings, seals or materials. Same goes with greese, use one that is compatable with the materials its going to work with. Avoid petroleum based greese. You did asume right, A light coat on rod should do the trick. hope that helps.

2 August 12, 22:47	#480
max attack Donated Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Melbourne Age: 47	Durge, the oil Frex use is Silicone oil.

10 August 12, 18:55	#483
qntje Join Date: Sep 2009	Hi, Recently I've got several problems with my GT3 RSv2 and ClubSport Pedal set, maybe you guys can help me out! When the wheel and pedals are connected with the PS/2 connector the signal of the wheel and the pedals drops randomly within 5 minutes time. I can restart the wheel but the problem simply re-occurs. I'm running with the latest beta drivers and firmware. I've also tried driver 115 and 681 firmware but then after only 2 minutes the force feedback just simply loses all it's power (and I'm driving with 50% FFB force already). The problem does not occur when connecting the pedals with the USB connector but I would like to have it work when the pedals are directly connected to to wheel for the brake vibration function. Does this mean my wheel is slowly dying after only 6 months of regular use? I have had several problems before (the fans inside the wheel have already been replaced although they are started to make a lot of noise once again). Hope someone can help me out. Thanks in advance!

11 August 12, 23:31	#485
porph Donated Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: UK	I have a GT3 RS V2 wheel and randomly during use it will re-align centre at either the 11:30 or 12:30 (approx) position.. I only play iRacing currently so have no idea if it is solely within this game. I can fix it by re-calibrating in game but obviously if I am mid-race this is no good.. Is this a known issue?

27 August 12, 20:44	#489
Xtra Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Germany Age: 32	The firmware for GT3RS V2 is now updated. So actually it's the proper one...

28 August 12, 17:29	#490
aviphysics Join Date: Aug 2012	I got my CSR value pack (vanilla version) yesterday. First thing I did was update to 750B FW and install matching drivers. In Shift 2 I didn't get any FFB. I tried setting it up as a custom wheel and also as a 911 wheel. The FFB slider I set to 100%. I also found that adjusting the dampening slider in the control panel didn't seem to do anything at the desktop or in games. In DIRT 3 the wheel seemed to work perfectly, though I couldn't tell if it was applying dampening or if that was just the mechanical steering resistance. The dampening slider did not seem to effect this game. Any ideas on what this could be? System is running Win7 64bit. Before this I had a G27 I was using with the same saved game. I did notice that there were some items left in the device list after uninstalling the LPS for the G27. Currently doing a fresh install of windows, switching out my fancy logitech mouse for a basic mouse and starting a new saved game to eliminate as many variables as possible, but would appreciate any other advice in the mean time.

28 August 12, 18:35	#491
redi Superator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: On a thin crust covering a huge ball of hot molten stone whizzing through space Age: 40	Not sure what the problem is in Shift 2, but damper is usually not used in PC games, and neither is spring.

28 August 12, 19:58	#492
aviphysics Join Date: Aug 2012	So does the dampening Slider in the Windows control panel not serve any function? It is right under the wheel angle slider. It looks like this... (though I don't think it has the centering spring check box, will have to check when I get home) (I just grabbed this off the web so the driver version is probably different in the picture. The sliders look the same though) Edit: Found a closer picture Last edited by aviphysics; 28 August 12 at 20:14.

29 August 12, 13:05	#493
redi Superator Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: On a thin crust covering a huge ball of hot molten stone whizzing through space Age: 40	It has a function, but it's not a hardware damper. It only has an effect if games actually use the damper functionality.

29 August 12, 13:41	#494
aviphysics Join Date: Aug 2012	Running a fresh install of Windows, with nothing but DirectX, Shift 2, and only the necessary drivers, FFB still did not work. I gave up and switched to PS3 mode with the Logitech software and that worked great. Will just not worry about the Fanatec drivers for now, unless anyone is aware of a downside to PS3 mode.

6 October 12, 14:55	#495
JonP01 Join Date: Jul 2006 Age: 46	Hi, I recently upgraded the firmware of my 911GT3 V2 wheel to 750B and the drivers to 140. Previously I was running the factory firmware and 115 drivers. Whilst I can certainly say that the new firmware and drivers create an absolutely fantastic force feedback experience (best I have ever felt bar none and a huge improvement over the factory firmware and drivers), there seems to be a new problem that I never had before. What is happening is that within the first 5 minutes of using the wheel during a game, I will experience two brief pauses in the gameplay itself. These pauses are exactly like traditional "freezes" except that the machine recovers within about 1 to 2 seconds each time. So the game will simply pause for about 2 seconds after around 5 minutes, then there will be another 8 - 10 seconds of normal gameplay followed by the second pause, again lasting around 1 - 2 seconds. And it is always these two pauses that happen and always within the first 5 minutes or so - not just one pause. Obviously this is very annoying given that these pauses are happening in the middle of a race. At first I thought it was something to do with my software configuration, or even a hardware issue. But I have eliminated software problems by reverting back to a complete hard drive image I made back in July this year when this problem was never occuring (and in NFS Shift 2, for example, I played the game for a whole year on this exact same hardware and the pause issues never, ever happened). Then I tried substituting other hardware (I suspected my SSD, for example) but the pause problem remains. So I know I have a software image that does not have this "fault" and my hardware checks out OK. So this leaves only one variable - the 750B firmware upgrade (I tried the 750B firmare with the old 115 drivers but the pauses keep happening) since the 750B firmware upgrade is the only difference between my machine today and my machine back in July. So I can only come to one conclusion: that is there is something strange about the new 750B firmware that is causing my racing games to freeze twice within the first 5 minutes of gameplay (after which they play fine, even for hours on end). Is this a known issue with the firmware upgrades? I did come across a post via a google search that claimed people were having fan and "pause" issues with the new firmware but I haven't really found anything much more than that (or even an explanation), and the Fanatec website seems poorly organised as far as searching for answers is concerned. I would like to try and go back to my original factory firmare if only to try and verify that it is indeed 750B causing these problems, but is this possible and how can I do it? In any event, I would like to add this pausing problem as a possible issue related to the latest firmware, simply because I have been able to eliminate every other variable after a weeks worth of testing on my PC.

19 October 12, 09:14	#499
robrace Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: South Africa Age: 50	To all fellow South African Simracers I have just acquired my Fanatec Clubsport base, BMW GT2 wheel and V2 pedal set. As Fanatec is not represented in South Africa, I got it through a on-line store website: www.importitall.co.za from the States with excellent courier rates! In order to make use of the LED's for GTL / GTR2 / rFactor / rfactor2 for e.g., a plugin is available from: fanaleds.idrift.nl which works well in that it indicates amongst others the gear and shift point using flashing characters [ ] I am in the process of fine tuning all the settings on it and 'in-game' but I must say that straight out of the box so to speak, the build quality and force feedback is superior to the previous wheel I had being a Logitech G25. I am finding that the racing is more immersive and that you can be quicker in lap times due to I would say the feedback from the wheel. Cheers!

24 October 12, 12:15	#500
porph Donated Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: UK	Is it just me or is the Fanatec software abysmal? I just got a new machine and installed me GT3 RS again.. I installed the driver yet I have no idea where the actual config software is. No other manufacturer makes it this challenging. Not only that but my wheel was defective from the start and I was just sent a replacement part with instructions to fix it that I imagine only a professional electronic engineer or someone with far more time on their hands than I have could ever manage. As it is my current problem is that an extreme level of self centreing seems to have kicked in now, the wheel feels horrible to use and is clearly not setup right. Can anyone please enlighten me as to how to set this damn thing up again? I'm about 30 minutes from chucking the piece of crap out the window.