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Unread 24 December 15, 19:54   #801
redi
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Originally Posted by JonP01 View Post
I've just started having a problem with my 911 GTR V3 wheel. It is no longer recognising my Logitech pedals. I tried replacing the pedals with a brand new spare set of G25 pedals that I have and it makes no difference (and I am certain both sets of pedals are fine - both are not suddenly going to stop working at the same time).

I have tried reformatting my computer, updating the wheel firmware (to 756)and software to the latest (205) but the pedals are still not being recognised (this via the Fanatec icon on my desktop and of course in-game).

I also replaced the USB cable from wheel to computer, power supply to wheel, replaced the Fanatec adapter from Logitech pedals to the wheel and checked all connections multiple times.

So I am completely out of ideas and this seems to point to the wheel having developed a fault.

Additionally, at the same time this happened, the ABS function causes the wheel rim to vibrate permanently unless the ABS is set to 1 or higher. Regardless of whether pedals are plugged into it or not. So if it is set to 0, the wheel rim vibrates whenever the wheel is powered on. 1 or higher and it does not.

So now I am stuck with a non-working sim computer as there is no way to get the pedals to work any more. When testing the wheel via the Fanatec applet, all buttons, vibration and feedback test out OK.
You could try and contact Fanatec Support and see what they think. I have never seen this issue reported before, so not sure what might be wrong (other than the internal connection or connector being broken).

How/when exactly did the problem start? Did you do anything specific? Did it give intermittent connection issues first, or did it go from working to not working overnight?
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Unread 25 December 15, 23:46   #802
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Coinicidentally or not, it all seemed to start when I was using my normal sim (Race 07) and was just trying out the ABS function on the wheel. Because I needed to lock the brakes to see how the function worked, I deliberately did it and kept them "locked", hitting a barrier. It was immediately after hitting that barrier that the wheel started acting strangely, with the ABS function and pedal functions subsequently mucked up as I described (but everything else - the wheel itself and all force feedback working perfectly fine - and hitting the barrier did nothing to the wheel as it barely flinched hitting the barrier head on).

It was then that I decided to upgrade the firmware and software since I felt I had nothing to lose but as I reported it did not fix the problem.

Subsequent to my post, however, I notice something just as strange. The wheel would recognise the pedals and the ABS started working if I disabled the fan in the wheel by default (in other words fan is off after the wheel is first turned on).

So that is where I am now. I have the fan in the wheel turned off and everything (so far) is working fine again. I suppose it does not matter since the fan will go on anyway when the wheel gets warm enough and the fan turning on when the wheel is already in use and warm does not effect anything. It's only at power on if the fan is enabled that way where the problems occur.

So it is a very strange problem. I will just keep an eye on it but so far after a week of simming for about an hour per day it has been fine.
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Unread 25 December 15, 23:52   #803
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Originally Posted by redi View Post
The ClubSport wheels are at least as configurable as the GT3 is. Most LCD menu options are the same, all options of the GT3 are on the CSW as well, not sure whether there are any specific items that the GT3 does not have.

Also the drift setting is there on the CSW, and works just as well.

Thanks. I noticed when upgrading my GT3 V2 firmware and software to the latest that the wheel felt very different than before (and ultimately much better after some additional tweaking since the FF effects are now much stronger on the same settings as before and there is much more subtlety even when the force levels are turned back down again in the sim to compensate).

I found it interesting that with the old firmware software I had to have drift set at maximum (5) to make the wheel useable for me in normal circuit racing. On a drift setting of 5 now, it is crazy - massively power-assisted opposite lock! So a drift setting of 3 is all that is now needed to make the wheel feel "right" for circuit racing. I imagine I can have it lower or even off on lower inertia / turning resistance wheels such as clubsport v2, etc.
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Unread 26 December 15, 13:56   #804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonP01 View Post
Coinicidentally or not, it all seemed to start when I was using my normal sim (Race 07) and was just trying out the ABS function on the wheel. Because I needed to lock the brakes to see how the function worked, I deliberately did it and kept them "locked", hitting a barrier. It was immediately after hitting that barrier that the wheel started acting strangely, with the ABS function and pedal functions subsequently mucked up as I described (but everything else - the wheel itself and all force feedback working perfectly fine - and hitting the barrier did nothing to the wheel as it barely flinched hitting the barrier head on).

It was then that I decided to upgrade the firmware and software since I felt I had nothing to lose but as I reported it did not fix the problem.

Subsequent to my post, however, I notice something just as strange. The wheel would recognise the pedals and the ABS started working if I disabled the fan in the wheel by default (in other words fan is off after the wheel is first turned on).

So that is where I am now. I have the fan in the wheel turned off and everything (so far) is working fine again. I suppose it does not matter since the fan will go on anyway when the wheel gets warm enough and the fan turning on when the wheel is already in use and warm does not effect anything. It's only at power on if the fan is enabled that way where the problems occur.

So it is a very strange problem. I will just keep an eye on it but so far after a week of simming for about an hour per day it has been fine.
All sounds very weird. May be worthwile to contact Fanatec Support and see whether they ever heard of such symptoms, and how to get rid of them.
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Unread 6 January 16, 20:48   #805
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I just have another question about the latest firmware if I may. I notice that if the drift setting on the wheel is around 3 or higher, then the power up sequence is very "aggressive" in terms of the wheel action when turning right then left. When it turns left it really hits the "stopper" hard and fast and actually rebounds back. It is hard to imagine this is good for the wheel.

I am getting around this by having a second profile (S 2 as opposed to S 1 that I actually drive with) setup on the wheel itself (no drift and spring / dampers at default) and the power up is then perfectly fine. But I have to make sure that each and every time I go to turn the wheel off, I remember to select that second profile - otherwise the wheel will go nuts and smash against the stopper on that left-turn.

Is this just the way it is or will this be addressed in a future firmware update?
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Unread 7 January 16, 19:04   #806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonP01 View Post
I just have another question about the latest firmware if I may. I notice that if the drift setting on the wheel is around 3 or higher, then the power up sequence is very "aggressive" in terms of the wheel action when turning right then left. When it turns left it really hits the "stopper" hard and fast and actually rebounds back. It is hard to imagine this is good for the wheel.

I am getting around this by having a second profile (S 2 as opposed to S 1 that I actually drive with) setup on the wheel itself (no drift and spring / dampers at default) and the power up is then perfectly fine. But I have to make sure that each and every time I go to turn the wheel off, I remember to select that second profile - otherwise the wheel will go nuts and smash against the stopper on that left-turn.

Is this just the way it is or will this be addressed in a future firmware update?
Thanks for the report. I'll discuss this with the devs whether it may affect wheel lifetime. Pretty sure that firmware development for this wheel has stopped, but who knows.
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Unread 7 January 16, 20:06   #807
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Hi Redi,

Honestly I wouldn't even dream of Fanatec supporting such an old, obsolete product. I only mentioned it because the firmware is still common with the current product (I think I am correct there?). Does this mean the current products (such as Club Sport wheel base V2) would not do this violent manouever during power-on, even with drift settings at around 4?

I would have thought the relative lack of friction in the newer more expensive wheel would make the behaviour even "worse", but perhaps it does not effect the current products at all?
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Unread 8 January 16, 20:19   #808
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Originally Posted by JonP01 View Post
Hi Redi,

Honestly I wouldn't even dream of Fanatec supporting such an old, obsolete product. I only mentioned it because the firmware is still common with the current product (I think I am correct there?). Does this mean the current products (such as Club Sport wheel base V2) would not do this violent manouever during power-on, even with drift settings at around 4?

I would have thought the relative lack of friction in the newer more expensive wheel would make the behaviour even "worse", but perhaps it does not effect the current products at all?
My CSW v2 does exactly the same calibration no matter what drift setting I've set.

I spoke with the devs and indeed no firmware updates will be made anymore. The wheel should not take any damage when having it on drift setting 3 during auto-calibration, but using 4 or 5 isn't really recommended (also from a normal gameplay point of view, as it's just too light).
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Unread 10 January 16, 16:05   #809
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Originally Posted by redi View Post
My CSW v2 does exactly the same calibration no matter what drift setting I've set.

I spoke with the devs and indeed no firmware updates will be made anymore. The wheel should not take any damage when having it on drift setting 3 during auto-calibration, but using 4 or 5 isn't really recommended (also from a normal gameplay point of view, as it's just too light).
That's fine. As I say, I wasn't really expecting support for the older wheels. As for drift, from what I have read different people have different opinions and views. There are people who say 3 is "correct" and others who say 4 is "correct". For my own part, the older GT2 / GT3 wheels have much higher mechanical friction than the newer, much more expensive wheels. They even have a lot more friction than something like a T500 which itself is thought to have more than the newer T300RS.

That being the case, at least with my GT3 wheel, a setting of 4 is a tad too high but a setting of 3 is too low. If it were theorectically possible to tweak it in tenths, I'd probably be going for somewhere around the 3.8 mark on the older GT2 / GT3 wheels. My lap times are certainly the fastest and most consistent with a setting of 4 and this emulates more accurately what I feel in a real rear driven car when I oversteer on a track day.

As I have mentioned earlier, given the much more expensive, modern Fanatecs have gone a very long way to reducing friction and inertia in a belt drive to low levels, I imagine 3 would be as high as I would need to go on a wheel like that and possibly given how used I am to the older wheels, maybe even lower again.

I definitely agree that 5 is out for any sort of road racing on any wheel. I think a good way to find an optimal setting is to have the wheel powered up and spin it in both directions using the various settings. I think the ideal setting should show no obvious "power assistance" when being spun by hand but shouldn't slow down so fast it barely even manages a quarter of a turn before the internal friction halts it.

If you try this test with a GT3 wheel you will understand why I think a setting of 3 is simply too low for these older wheels. My personal belief is that a force feedback wheel should - when not responding to force feedback commands from a sim - be as free moving as possible. I think all the "feel" - including damping and friction should come solely from calculations made by the sim and not from within the wheel mechanical mechanism itself. Obviously this is practically impossible, but the closer the better in my view. Hence my reasoning for using a higher drift setting than some other people may choose, as it does go a very long way to mitigating the inherent mechanical friction and inertia in a force feedback wheel with minimal side-effects (relatively speaking and obviously with a drift setting within reason that doesn't make oversteer correction feel power-assisted)
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Unread 17 January 16, 07:31   #810
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looking to buy a new steering wheel controller. There seems only to be the $1000 wheel base now ?
Is there anything new coming out soon. 6 or $700 maybe

how old is a Porsche GT3 RS V2 wheel ? I can get one 2nd hand. The guy says he bought it new in August 2015 ? I think he is telling porky pies as I cannot find a new one for sale anywhere.

Last edited by pistoncup; 18 January 16 at 08:21.
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Unread 18 January 16, 09:41   #811
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I have a Porsche 911 Turbo S Wheel and clubsport pedals, which work fine.

I have one problem with them and that is the size of the paddle gear change at the rear of wheel being too small.
Some years ago larger replacement paddles were available, does anybody know where i could get these from ?
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Unread 23 January 16, 19:59   #812
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I have a Porsche 911 Turbo S Wheel and clubsport pedals, which work fine.

I have one problem with them and that is the size of the paddle gear change at the rear of wheel being too small.
Some years ago larger replacement paddles were available, does anybody know where i could get these from ?
I think I have a brand new pair lying around. Please contact me through PM so we can arrange things.
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Unread 6 March 16, 13:23   #813
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Hello redi, I've read all pages in this thread trying to get an answer for my problem. I'll tell you what happens.

I have a Porsche GT3 v2 that freezes (video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6qgkmterth...03457.mp4?dl=0 ) I do not hear USB disconnecting, FWIW.

When I turn it back on, it works again. Sometimes it happens after 10 minutes and sometimes it happens after 1h, it's kinda random. Either way, after months dealing with this issue and with Fanatec's support, we've arranged a replacement that will arrive to my home next Tuesday. Hopefully that will solve things (whatcha think?) but I also decided to buy a PCI USB card to make sure that I turn the page and that my new wheel works flawlessly.

My questions:

What's your take. Do you think it was overheating issue/defective product or do you think that it had to do with PCI USB not installed? (I checked the USB Power Save mode options off, obviously).

And 2. this wheel can withstand 2h/3h sessions flawlessly, right? Even if it gets (normalliy) a bit hot.

Please I'd appreciate your answer.

Thanks.
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Unread 6 March 16, 19:36   #814
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Originally Posted by sepioes View Post
Hello redi, I've read all pages in this thread trying to get an answer for my problem. I'll tell you what happens.

I have a Porsche GT3 v2 that freezes (video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6qgkmterth...03457.mp4?dl=0 ) I do not hear USB disconnecting, FWIW.

When I turn it back on, it works again. Sometimes it happens after 10 minutes and sometimes it happens after 1h, it's kinda random. Either way, after months dealing with this issue and with Fanatec's support, we've arranged a replacement that will arrive to my home next Tuesday. Hopefully that will solve things (whatcha think?) but I also decided to buy a PCI USB card to make sure that I turn the page and that my new wheel works flawlessly.

My questions:

What's your take. Do you think it was overheating issue/defective product or do you think that it had to do with PCI USB not installed? (I checked the USB Power Save mode options off, obviously).

And 2. this wheel can withstand 2h/3h sessions flawlessly, right? Even if it gets (normalliy) a bit hot.

Please I'd appreciate your answer.

Thanks.
If it were overheating, I wouldn't expect it to work again right after starting it up again. So I think it's something else. Whether it's in your PC or in your wheel I don't know, and the only way to find out is to see whether the new wheel does the same in the current configuration, and if yes, only then install the new USB card and test again.

Officially, the wheel should be allowed to cool down after 1h of playing. However, my take on it is that if it can function during 1h of continuous playing, it can for 2 or 3h as well as it will have reached thermal equilibrium much faster than in 1 hour.
That's no official guarantee, though, and if it's overheating after all you'll notice by the fan spinning at maximum speed and the air coming out of the wheel being quite warm. If that happens, try turning down the FFB strength a bit.
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Unread 6 March 16, 22:13   #815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redi View Post
If it were overheating, I wouldn't expect it to work again right after starting it up again. So I think it's something else. Whether it's in your PC or in your wheel I don't know, and the only way to find out is to see whether the new wheel does the same in the current configuration, and if yes, only then install the new USB card and test again.
In any case, i read from your post that overheating is not what the video shows. Hopefully the problem was in the PCB of the old wheel and things are solved in the new one, allowing me to play 2h sessions with no problems!

PS: Is it the first time you see a video with the symptoms showed in my video?
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Unread 11 March 16, 16:45   #816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sepioes View Post
In any case, i read from your post that overheating is not what the video shows. Hopefully the problem was in the PCB of the old wheel and things are solved in the new one, allowing me to play 2h sessions with no problems!

PS: Is it the first time you see a video with the symptoms showed in my video?
Seems I forgot my submit my reply earlier

Hard to tell from that video what exactly happened. Such freezes have been reported before, though. It could still be overheating. Hopefully the repair will fix it.
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Unread 21 March 16, 14:55   #817
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I'm sorry redi...........


... it seems like my CSW V2 lightened up only because GTL and GTR2 are programmed to make ANY wheel lighter when the car fuel level get to a certain lower point (let's say when you've 3 laps of fuel left in the tank).

This, I believe, has been inserted to produce a feedback where the sim is telling you: "hey friend, pay attention that your car is low on fuel -- but you can drive more easily".

No, the problem persisted, and wasn't a matter of emptied tank... with 50 starting liters the problem showed up with 30 liters remaining. It's simply an hardware matter. Latest driver and 'flashware'.

Ticket opened @ the Fanatec Support.
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Unread 19 May 16, 18:23   #818
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i posted this earlier in the wrong area.

is there a driver available for a Fanatec Porsche Turbo S to work with windows 10?
thank you.
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Unread 19 May 16, 18:52   #819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philrob View Post
i posted this earlier in the wrong area.

is there a driver available for a Fanatec Porsche Turbo S to work with windows 10?
thank you.
In principle any driver that is Windows 10 compatible should also support the Turbo S. Are you experiencing that the wheel doesn't work properly? What driver version are you using?
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Unread 19 May 16, 19:00   #820
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Redi
at present i have running on my Turbo S:
Ver 756 64 bit firmware and 177 drivers
running in win 7, i am considering installing win 10.I was not sure if this older wheel would have suitable drivers.
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Unread 19 May 16, 19:22   #821
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Redi
at present i have running on my Turbo S:
Ver 756 64 bit firmware and 177 drivers
running in win 7, i am considering installing win 10.I was not sure if this older wheel would have suitable drivers.
Anything from the Turbo S upwards is supported by the current drivers.
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Unread 19 May 16, 19:54   #822
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Redi,
thanks for the quick reply, will make my decision to install win 10 a bit easier.
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Unread 9 June 16, 07:23   #823
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I've just bought some used Fanatec CSR Elite pedals off eBay, I think the foam insert may need replacing, but I can't see this listed as a spare part on the Fanatec website - how can I get a replacement? If I contact Fanatect directly, will they send me one? I also will probably a couple of replacement load cells from them, so perhaps they could include that in my order?

BTW would this lubricant be suitable to use with the pedals?:

Molyslip ADF

http://www.molyslip.co.uk/products.php?cat=35&prd=33



"MOLYSLIP ADF (Air Drying Film) is pure molybdenum disulphide in an air drying, bonding resinate for spray or brush application. It provides lubrication where oils and greases cannot be used, eg where there is danger of dust contamination, and is excellent for the pre-treatment of parts such as gears and slides before assembly. It is also ideal for the lubrication of small mechanisms.

PERFORMANCE AND USAGE:

MOLYSLIP ADF is ideal for pre-assembly treatment. The film prevents scuffing during the initial stages of running-in new components. After assembly it provides exceptional, longlasting lubrication which gives a considerable reduction in wear and consequently lengthens the life of a component."

Or would one of the other Molyslip products be better? e.g. AS40:

http://www.molyslip.co.uk/products.php?cat=35&prd=31
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Unread 9 June 16, 10:22   #824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metalogic View Post
I've just bought some used Fanatec CSR Elite pedals off eBay, I think the foam insert may need replacing, but I can't see this listed as a spare part on the Fanatec website - how can I get a replacement? If I contact Fanatect directly, will they send me one? I also will probably a couple of replacement load cells from them, so perhaps they could include that in my order?

BTW would this lubricant be suitable to use with the pedals?:

Molyslip ADF

http://www.molyslip.co.uk/products.php?cat=35&prd=33



"MOLYSLIP ADF (Air Drying Film) is pure molybdenum disulphide in an air drying, bonding resinate for spray or brush application. It provides lubrication where oils and greases cannot be used, eg where there is danger of dust contamination, and is excellent for the pre-treatment of parts such as gears and slides before assembly. It is also ideal for the lubrication of small mechanisms.

PERFORMANCE AND USAGE:

MOLYSLIP ADF is ideal for pre-assembly treatment. The film prevents scuffing during the initial stages of running-in new components. After assembly it provides exceptional, longlasting lubrication which gives a considerable reduction in wear and consequently lengthens the life of a component."

Or would one of the other Molyslip products be better? e.g. AS40:

http://www.molyslip.co.uk/products.php?cat=35&prd=31
Just contact Fanatec Support with your question, and they'll figure a way to help you out.

The lubricant I think I have seen mentioned before by other users, so that should work.
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Unread 9 June 16, 11:20   #825
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I had a 911GT2 wheel and the ring at the top lost its colour. I send them a photo and they sent me a new one. I think I had to pay the shipping costs but it wasn't too expensive (few Euro, I live in Germany).
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Unread 10 June 16, 18:27   #826
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BTW for the Fanatec CSR Elite pedals is the best driver/firmware to use currently the latest 2.50 beta (64-bit) version?

Strangely on the official page for the CSR Elite pedals it only lists this firmware:

2.05 (32-bit)
1.44 (64-bit)

I'm running Windows 10 64-bit
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Unread 10 June 16, 18:28   #827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redi View Post
Just contact Fanatec Support with your question, and they'll figure a way to help you out.

The lubricant I think I have seen mentioned before by other users, so that should work.
Also, if I get a new foam insert for the brake pedals, what's the best lubricant to soak this with?
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Unread 11 June 16, 21:03   #828
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Fanatec AU doubled the price of load cells to $39AU ( $30 US )

They sell for $19US

ripoffs
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Unread 13 June 16, 03:21   #829
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I read somewhere, it may even have been here, that Fanatec recommends only an hour of use before cooling it for an hour. Over a thousand Dollars for a device that you have to cool off every hour?
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Unread 14 June 16, 22:31   #830
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I am doing another complaint to the ACCC about them, I fed up.

My wheel a gift from a mate failed in warranty period 6 months ( as did my other 2 Fanatecs )

I got a replacement from them and it failed sooner with identical problem.

They asked me to send receipt, I said I sent it to you at at the time when I never got it back in the box I sent it in I never really gave it a thought....as obviously they would have a copy of it ? or did they throw it in a bin ?

lol

I even sent them a old email highlighting the sentence where it says " I have sent you original receipt in the box" lol ( I never had a printer or scanner )

The grief they give you over lowly priced wheel that they know they have already replaced and must have its serial number written down will know it is the same wheel they sent me back...if they let me send it.

What a shommozle like I said over a dis-continued wheel costs as much as a shifter.


Now to buy just 2 loads cells will cost me a bit over $90 AU ! ( ie: no use buying one )


To top that all off because I do not have PayPal they will not send me the $50 for 2 lots of postage they owe me ! hahahaha
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Unread 15 June 16, 10:42   #831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DurgeDriven View Post
I am doing another complaint to the ACCC about them, I fed up.

My wheel a gift from a mate failed in warranty period 6 months ( as did my other 2 Fanatecs )

I got a replacement from them and it failed sooner with identical problem.

They asked me to send receipt, I said I sent it to you at at the time when I never got it back in the box I sent it in I never really gave it a thought....as obviously they would have a copy of it ? or did they throw it in a bin ?

lol

I even sent them a old email highlighting the sentence where it says " I have sent you original receipt in the box" lol ( I never had a printer or scanner )

The grief they give you over lowly priced wheel that they know they have already replaced and must have its serial number written down will know it is the same wheel they sent me back...if they let me send it.

What a shommozle like I said over a dis-continued wheel costs as much as a shifter.


Now to buy just 2 loads cells will cost me a bit over $90 AU ! ( ie: no use buying one )


To top that all off because I do not have PayPal they will not send me the $50 for 2 lots of postage they owe me ! hahahaha
Same thing happened here. They shredded the external package of the wheel base and sent it back in a way ANYBODY could guess what was inside (€700 CSW V2 base). I'm still fighting with my CSW V2 overheating problems in GTR2 / GTL. They say they have changed the main circuit board.

Truth is: other people can play in iRacing with FFB set to 100 for more than one hour and never experience the FFB 'falling' - while in my case only 20 minutes of racing in GTR2 and GTL equates to a unit overheating and subsequent FFB weakening and shutting off.

BTW: It's better not to trust them at 100% and always sends a COPY of the receipt. I know it sounds ridiculous, but apparently there's not a clear ethics in the organization. The only exceptions are the people at the support, which are very... supportive and kind.
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Unread 15 June 16, 21:05   #832
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BTW: It's better not to trust them at 100% and always sends a COPY of the receipt. I know it sounds ridiculous, but apparently there's not a clear ethics in the organization. The only exceptions are the people at the support, which are very... supportive and kind.
I agree 101%


Friend brought it, he has left sim racing I have no contact.
He sent me the receipt I sent it to Fanatec the first RMA.

Okay I made error not copying I had no scanner, does not change the fact they already have it, like I said unless they throw them in the bin.

Why do they not have records of 2 GT2 sold at Fanatec site from Tasmania
in September 2015, how hard could it be.


But the wierder thing is the wheel they sent me has nothing to do with the orginal receipt.

Please help me understand Bob ?

they send me a replacement wheel.
They know who to ..me
Where ..my house.
Item and ID ........I assume they make record of the serial number of the replacement wheel? lol ? surely ?

So if I send the wheel they can easy check the serial matched the one they sent me RMA. lol
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Unread 16 June 16, 09:32   #833
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It's a problem of vision. I think it's because beyond the facade of a serious organization and tidy business, the back-office oftenly get messy when the teams' not ready to face the customers needs. Typical when the business gets larger and the procedures remains the same of before.

Happened to myself while working for the italian Telecom in a project firstly assigned to the Siemens (IT branch) of Italy, then (as Siemens left the IT sector in my country) to a french company called Atos. Siemens de facto started his mission assigning the project to smaller companies (one of which I worked into) which were, de facto as well, a real mess in terms of organization. Atos followed, inspectors came, I obeyed and went cooperative for the good of the customers (and the 'bigger brother' Siemens - I worked because they allowed me after all), my team-mates did not (and hate me), the company in which I stayed kicked away the bad apples just after I went away.

How does this links to your Fanatec experience?

Because the smaller companies don't have the broader vision of a larger company.
And so: smaller companies will give you no starting courses to learn the job but instead will race you into the sad path of what in Italy's called 'formation-on-the-job' (a highly unsuccessful formula to direct your human resources because they 1) will lack knowledge even after many years of work and 2) will probably start fearing their work without really understanding it), not a thumb will be arisen from your superiors to properly build a team of people (let's not even speak of 'team-working', a concept that most of these infimous realities don't even know), NO STUDY OF BEST PRACTICES AT ALL and so, many, many bad consequences will inevitably follows.

I fear this is more or less what's going on at the Fanatec. The main characters only care for new projects, possibilites and dows and probably its staff (although probably guided by good squad-chiefs) is going on carrying out imprecise procedures which might have been good (only) for a local company with no interest on global marketing.

Hence, probably your wheel has been given to another person, which either complained more than you did or spent more than you did (but this one is no guarantee... just my case!).
And my wheel is still working badly.

About the receipt... well they probably have it stored away, but in my experience it seems like they will help you ONLY if you show them for first your true proof of payment/ problem. ERGO: If a receipt might be lost for the good of the company, it will be probably lost. I know I may sounds very harsh and even nasty, but this is just...

My 2 cents.

p.s.: grow up Fanatec! Ferrari sold Ferraris because he was actually winning GPs, not just building beautiful carriages!


Sorry for the off-topic, moderators.
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Unread 16 June 16, 21:31   #834
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OH well I give in p

Fanatec-Endor reckon if 2 of their wheels last a total of 9 months but spread over more then a year it is void.

So what even in 18months I only get max 9 months warranty one each wheel.

This is not Germany

If a defective product is replaced with a brand new product here in Australia....

THE WARRANTY PERIOD STARTS AGAIN .................doh lol


I have that happen with every high high PC part I buy, every single one.

NEW for OLD warranty period because it is ONLY FAIR


Like I said this is not Germany.


Too bad for them and too late,

I have started ACCC proceedings ( again ) against Endor, let them tell bs to the Australian Government about a brand new replacement product having no warranty whatsoever.

lmao it's unbelievable !

Last edited by DurgeDriven; 16 June 16 at 21:50.
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Unread 16 June 16, 21:41   #835
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Warranties are separate from your automatic consumer guarantees. The consumer guarantees which apply regardless of any warranties suppliers sell or give to you, apply for a reasonable time depending on the nature of the goods or services. This means consumer guarantees may continue to apply after the time period for the warranty has expired.

see this is aussie law not rabble.

If you take into account the time period of 18 months for 2 Brand New wheels + the time getting them replaced and another ACCC complaint.

It is hardly an excessive " time period " .................

ie: Given the same time parameters for use of each wheel till same "power up " defect occurred ( 6 months) but with 2 buyers and 2 RMA they would have replaced both ! lol

Last edited by DurgeDriven; 17 June 16 at 01:53.
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Unread 17 June 16, 10:13   #836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DurgeDriven View Post
OH well I give in p

Fanatec-Endor reckon if 2 of their wheels last a total of 9 months but spread over more then a year it is void.

So what even in 18months I only get max 9 months warranty one each wheel.

This is not Germany

If a defective product is replaced with a brand new product here in Australia....

THE WARRANTY PERIOD STARTS AGAIN .................doh lol


I have that happen with every high high PC part I buy, every single one.

NEW for OLD warranty period because it is ONLY FAIR


Like I said this is not Germany.


Too bad for them and too late,

I have started ACCC proceedings ( again ) against Endor, let them tell bs to the Australian Government about a brand new replacement product having no warranty whatsoever.

lmao it's unbelievable !
LOL! That's pardoxical, but very correct from the customer point of view!

Long life to the Austrialian consumer law, then!



LOL!
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Unread 24 August 16, 15:05   #837
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Redi,
myclubsport pedals v1s load cell has failed where can i buy a replacement ?
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Unread 24 August 16, 17:17   #838
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Redi,
myclubsport pedals v1s load cell has failed where can i buy a replacement ?
https://www.fanatec.com/eu-de/pedale...d-cell-eu.html

You can buy them directly from Fanatec. Mine failed a few months ago (cable broke). It is just a few minutes work.
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Unread 24 August 16, 18:23   #839
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If you're OK using a soldering iron to swap the connector, try these
I tend to go through one every year or so, it's silly money from Fanatec.
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Unread 24 August 16, 19:13   #840
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If you're OK using a soldering iron to swap the connector, try these
I tend to go through one every year or so, it's silly money from Fanatec.
Also these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Sets-X-...item33abe00bf4

image upload
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Unread 24 August 16, 21:28   #841
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great info guys, i bit the bullet and ordered from Fanatec, very expensive.
I will probably order the chinese bits as well just to try them.
Have you tried these Johnw/marmagas ?
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Unread 24 August 16, 21:55   #842
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Yes, I got a Fanatec replacement under warranty the first time, but it didn't last any longer than the original (I must have a heavy foot!). I've since been using the cheap ones for the last few years without any problems.

I'll get myself some connectors as well now (thanks for the link, marmagas), to save me having to keep cutting up the original one.
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Unread 25 August 16, 06:18   #843
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Originally Posted by bobwilliams View Post
LOL! That's pardoxical, but very correct from the customer point of view!

Long life to the Austrialian consumer law, then!



LOL!


Yeah great lol

BUT guesss what, they told the Consumer Comm. that I brought the wheel second hand which is a blatant lie.


The wheel was brought by MATF1 and delivered to my house from Fanatec BRAND NEW.


They are trying to tell me and the Commission that Mat brought the wheel , got delivery in Tasmania , used it, then sent it to me in Sydney second-hand !

WTF !!! FANATEC !!!


THEY ARE NOTHING BUT DIRTY ROTTEN FILTHY LIARS
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Unread 25 August 16, 06:36   #844
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Originally Posted by philrob View Post
great info guys, i bit the bullet and ordered from Fanatec, very expensive.
I will probably order the chinese bits as well just to try them.
Have you tried these Johnw/marmagas ?
From June 2014 till now the Chinese load cell works flawlessly!!!
Also,my CSP V1,especially throttle,started spiking,stuck and all sort of problems that made driving impossible.
I cleaned all with compressed air,reconnect the pedals and all was good.
After a while the same thing happened.
Well after changing the throttle sensor all is good and solid!!!
But my old CSP didn't have the sensor cover so I asked fanatec and they want 16 euros for two of them(clutch also)!!!!
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Unread 25 August 16, 06:39   #845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnw View Post
Yes, I got a Fanatec replacement under warranty the first time, but it didn't last any longer than the original (I must have a heavy foot!). I've since been using the cheap ones for the last few years without any problems.

I'll get myself some connectors as well now (thanks for the link, marmagas), to save me having to keep cutting up the original one.
See I do not get that John.

If a product fails under warranty and the Company designates it as a " Faulty Product" ie: not able to be repaired ( which is what they said of my first wheel ) , well, you should be entitled to a new product that the warranty begins again ?

Sure you get say 6 months for each wheel then on the 13th month the 7 month old one breaks.

How is that fair ? No matter it is 13 months.

They should give only 6 month warranty then people would know how abysmal their quality control is.

I don't think I being overly, harsh I only got effectively 8-9 months use out of 2 BRAND new wheels.

I am angry that they simply LIED about my first wheel saying it was second hand and acting like they did me a favor giving me another one.

lol


P.S.

As a comparison I broke 5 black Momos from 3 - 11 months in warranty
Most lasted a few months and would run off centre, one the buttons stopped working all togther
Actually the last one I got replaced after 11 months but I never abused them.

Logitech replaced everyone with a brand new wheel. lol

The 6th one lasted a couple years with the same forces.


So Logitech G29 may not be as good as GT2 but at least I will get a replacement with no argument !

Last edited by DurgeDriven; 25 August 16 at 06:57.
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Unread 25 August 16, 07:24   #846
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i ordered the chinese load cells and cables as well, will make up a few just in case.
Thanks again guys for the links.
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Unread 25 August 16, 09:27   #847
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Originally Posted by DurgeDriven View Post
See I do not get that John.

If a product fails under warranty and the Company designates it as a " Faulty Product" ie: not able to be repaired ( which is what they said of my first wheel ) , well, you should be entitled to a new product that the warranty begins again ?
I agree, but for me it was more about convenience. Rather than take the pedals out, film the problem, send that off to Fanatec, wait a week for the replacement load cell to arrive, then have to drive to a depot to collect because I was at work when the courier tried to deliver...I could just get some Chinese ones for a few pounds and have one ready to go when the other one failed.

I just treat them as consumables now, but if it was the whole pedal set that had to be replaced, then yes, I'd definitely be chasing Fanatec!
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Unread 29 November 16, 18:37   #848
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Angry Fanatec CSR Forza Wheel locked to the left!

Hey all,

The Forza locked up last night during pre-race for Brasil. I was headed into T1 and heard something then the wheel died and I went off. I tried to reset the wheel and it wouldn't self-calibrate like when you turn it on. It sounds different when it's spinning right & left, but now it always locks up spun all the way left. I tried a new Firmware Flash, reloaded the driver, tried to reset PC Mode, and even Windows doesn't see it in order to try anything there!? Did this wheel just dump on me? Is there a way to ask Fanatec?

Does anyone know Fanatec Support direct email?

This video I found is exactly what's happening to my wheel now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRLeG6nfFtw

UPDATE!!!!!


Fanatec Responded!

Hi Mike,
thank you for your inquiry,

Unfortunately your wheel shows a defective auto centering sensor,this issue is non-repairable,I am sorry to not having better news for you.

Best regards / Freundliche Gre

Suat Tombul

(Fanatec Support Team)


I guess that's that. Now what?

Last edited by Piratedvr; 30 November 16 at 23:37.
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Unread 17 July 17, 04:46   #849
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Unhappy GT3RSV2 freeze

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Originally Posted by sepioes View Post
In any case, i read from your post that overheating is not what the video shows. Hopefully the problem was in the PCB of the old wheel and things are solved in the new one, allowing me to play 2h sessions with no problems!

PS: Is it the first time you see a video with the symptoms showed in my video?
I know it's been a while, could you tell me if the repair was sucessful? I've been having the same problem as you and don't know what to do.
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