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Unread 26 December 16, 22:02   #1
lesthegringo
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Default time to renew my rig

Over the last 24 it has become clear that I need to renew my driving rig. I was putting in some better computer tech, but while doing so I realised a couple of things

1) it is nine years old.....
2) the Cobra racing seat I used is absolutely knackered, all the padding is gone and it now feels like sitting on iron rods
3) it is way too big, like twice the size it needs to be
4) the G25 wheel has a lot of side to side and up and down slop, so I think that the bearing at the top end is either loose or worn
5) the control panel at the front is largely useless due to changes made over the years
6) the buttons on the front stick due to using crap quality ones
7) the attachment of the mini keyboard ended up breaking it so now it's useless
8) I look at some of the design choices and construction and mentally do a facepalm
9) the wiring to the Leo Bodnar controllers is embarrassingly bad, and probably a fire hazard too

I could go on, but I think you can see that I am pretty much convinced that I need to start again. One issue will be the main structure, that was made from welded steel tubing and cannot be changed, which means either starting completely from scratch or working around that. Not sure which way I will go yet. Working from scratch will be difficult, I don't have my TiG welder with me here (stupid decision not to bring it) so a new design will have to use different construction techniques.

I made my own pedals and using hall effect sensors plus some varying strengths of rubber foam made them work really well, at least for most games - rF2 was an exception, but not sure whether that is the pedal's fault or something else. I will probably keep those.

I have a double H pattern 'gearbox' that frankly works brilliantly in all but one respect - the side to side movement is too loose and could benefit from having some R/C car dampers attached to give a little weight to it. However that change can't be done without a complete manufacture, so back to the machine shop for those. I works so well in fact that I would not consider buying anything, as (loose side to side movement aside) I have never come across better.

The new computech parts I have are perfectly adequate for a racing sim, however how they are fitted into the rig will be one of the biggest changes. By incorporating the PC differently I think 50% of the size issues will be addressed in one go.

The peripheral construction is also going to be a major change, I can use better materials and also package better all the components that led to the current one being so big, and use modern connections and parts to make the electrics better and tidier.

The last question mark then is the wheel, and this is where I would invite suggestions and comments. I only need a wheel, so what wheel(s) would be the current suggestions for use? I do like FFB, if it is correctly controlled and calibrated, and one that has more than 360 deg movement would be preferred, if not essential

Any suggestions as to other bits and bobs welcome, as you may know of some bit of kit I have not considered

Cheers

Les
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Unread 26 December 16, 22:20   #2
DurgeDriven
 
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One thing I think would look cool is make wiring looms for everything routing through the frame, use rubber grommets to seal the holes , you could put USB , mic plugs .... everything




Thrustmaster T300 RS
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Unread 26 December 16, 22:40   #3
lesthegringo
 
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I like the ideas Durge - never thought about making it open frame, certainly opens up possibilities
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Unread 27 December 16, 02:10   #4
lesthegringo
 
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I am taking the plunge and getting a 3D printer. That opens up a myriad of possibilities for the parts so will be able to make better components (hopefully)

It also brings the possibility of remaking the G25 head bearing, maybe? Perhaps moving the housing further back and using an extension shaft. Might be better than replacing it

The gearbox will be easy to do too, I can copy my aluminium one and add the coil over shock units

will be back with more ideas and hopefully photos
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Unread 31 December 16, 04:45   #5
DurgeDriven
 
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Another silly idea ................I never liked all the black cables everywhere.

If you don't use loom you can get nice USB and other leads that look like braided hoses in different shades.

Even ones that light up for Lemans lol p http://www.ebay.com.au/bhp/led-usb-cable

Use those skinny stainless steel cable ties to strap would look the part
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Unread 31 December 16, 13:42   #6
BrunoB
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lesthegringo View Post
I am taking the plunge and getting a 3D printer. That opens up a myriad of possibilities for the parts so will be able to make better components (hopefully)
That sounds extremely exciting.
A few years back I bought a T500 converter from Derek Speare to be able to use a SRW-S1 wheel on a T500 base.
And examening the converter I concluded that Derek use some kind of 3D printer to produce those small production numbers.

Hehe maybe I should make a note with your name for the next time I want some prototype created
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Unread 2 January 17, 21:03   #7
lesthegringo
 
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Again, good ideas Durge

Been busy designing, and I have the CAD renders of the double H gearbox but this pesky site won't let me post the photos on the gallery - it keeps asking me to select a category, but the drop down list doesn't work
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Unread 3 January 17, 01:23   #8
lesthegringo
 
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http://www.nogripracing.com/gallery/...p?photo=180294

Got it to work, hopefully you can see the 3D render of the gearbox assembly

Les
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Unread 3 January 17, 01:28   #9
lesthegringo
 
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http://www.nogripracing.com/gallery/...p?photo=180295


A couple more parts

http://www.nogripracing.com/gallery/...p?photo=180296
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Unread 11 January 17, 21:32   #11
lesthegringo
 
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Managed to work out how to link the photos in the gallery





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Unread 12 January 17, 03:05   #12
DurgeDriven
 
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Can you put something for size reference beside it.
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Unread 16 January 17, 21:12   #13
lesthegringo
 
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Here you go Durge, iPhone 6 for comparison



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Unread 16 January 17, 21:15   #14
DurgeDriven
 
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Thanks looks smaller then I thought.

I was imagining the gearstick was 2 feet long

lmao lol
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Unread 16 January 17, 21:38   #15
lesthegringo
 
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It's pretty small, and I could miniaturise it more, but don't think there's any point. I'm waiting for some microswitches and inserts to arrive to complete it

In the meantime I'm working on designing a F1 style wheel and sequential shift
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Unread 28 January 17, 21:43   #16
lesthegringo
 
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First renders of the F1 style wheel (colours just to help see the parts in Solidworks!)



And here are some of the prints















Les

Last edited by lesthegringo; 28 January 17 at 22:59.
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Unread 29 January 17, 21:25   #17
lesthegringo
 
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progress...







Les
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Unread 31 January 17, 05:37   #18
lesthegringo
 
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Whoops - looks like I have to go back to the drawing board on this part, obviously the loft geometry on the back was too marginal for the printer to handle.



still, at least I know it fits

Les
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Unread 31 January 17, 07:20   #19
lesthegringo
 
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better

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Unread 31 January 17, 07:50   #20
lesthegringo
 
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Prototype F1 wheel nearly finished





The majority of these bits will have to be reprinted once final adjustments are made, plus I have to put in some USB connectors and make sure the paddles work smoothly. There's no doubt that lots of small bolts and screws are the key to making a solid assembly, I'll probably put some more in the final design. I also will have to take what I've learned about 3D printing (talk about a crash course, three weeks ago I had never used one!) to make sure all the bits are as good as I can get them.

I'm also still waiting for the microswitches I ordered from ebay to arrive so I can finish the H pattern gearshift assembly. In the meantime, I need to design the sequential shifter, though comparatively that's very simple. The problem will be making it beefy enough to put up with the abuse they get, I suspect I'll be using some aluminium extrusion for some of it for strength.

Les
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Unread 2 February 17, 18:07   #21
vohdoun
 
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Pretty.
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Unread 2 February 17, 18:32   #22
DragonGaru
 
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awesome work, man!
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Unread 2 February 17, 18:45   #23
carham
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Incredible!
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Unread 13 February 17, 00:10   #24
lesthegringo
 
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I'm in the stage of modifying my G25 wheel motor housing to take the extension shaft and universal joint that allows me to bury the motor housing in the rig. Having disassembled it suficiently to do so, I can see that the main head bearing housing at the steering wheel end is cracked through! The retention flange is also broken away. No wonder there was a ton of play in the wheel.

None of this matters though, as there will be a pillow bearing at the wheel end so there will not be much lateral force on the motor housing. Additionally I will be making an angled support for the motor housing to remove the angular component on the rotation of the shaft.

Happily there is a nice 5 way PH type connector for the four switches on the wheel, so that will be easy to make a patch cable for both the old wheel and the F1 style wheel.

A USB keyboard has donated its controller pcb so I have a means of mapping buttons to that, although I wish that I was more skilled at printing my own PCB's; this would make this ten times tidier. As it is, it looks like there'll be a rats nest of wiring.

My homemade pedals are still pretty good, especially the solution for giving the brake pedal proper weight. However the hall effect sensor and magnet mounting needs work to say the least, and I need to look at how to make the sensor go full range. Currently the sensor is only using half the potential range that the Leo Bodnar controller can give, as it starts in the middle.

I may also end up chopping up an ATX case in order to make a more suitable Pc housing. As far as I know there is no requirement for the case to be made from metal, so I might make a part printed case just for the motherboard, back panel and graphics card. All the rest of the internals can be rehoused elsewhere, where cable runs allow. Any suggestions here from you guys would be appreciated.

Cheers

Les

Last edited by lesthegringo; 13 February 17 at 00:12. Reason: Spelling as usual
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Unread 13 February 17, 01:21   #25
DurgeDriven
 
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No make it from anything

More and more you see plastic hardrive carriers that help reduce heat transfer

I should think plastic would do same for motherboard tray , power supply even GPU transfers some heat through bracket

Guy here paid $500 !

Looks at very least a casual simmer, you see reflection of Logitech wheel in last pic. p

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...PC-Case/page2?


I think I rather a Corsair Obsidian 900D but it does look pretty trick
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Unread 13 February 17, 02:07   #26
lesthegringo
 
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Nice!

Interesting way of construction, certainly a good starting point. My prints are limited to what fits in a 152mm cube, so this definitely gives me food for thought.

Les
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Unread 26 February 17, 21:41   #27
lesthegringo
 
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So, a little progress.

The H pattern gearbox works really nicely, with a very smooth and positive action, with decent weight to the side to side movement and good front to rear action. I decided to replace the aluminium detent plates with PTFE sheet, and that really improved the smoothness, resulting in a less gritty movement, although the more slippery PTFE needed me to double up on the detent balls.

I eneded up using asymmetrical springs on the side to side shock absorbers, this gave me a bias to the 3rd/4th gear plane as you would get in a real gearbox, and I boosted it with a small detent ball to ensure it returns to the same position each time.

I am toying with the idea of adding a front to rear damper to see if that makes a nicer weight to that plane, will try it and see.





I have never been able to get the G25 to correctly limit the travel of the wheel in rFactor (worked in other games) so I decided to take the opportunity to add a selectable rotation limiter to the extension shaft. This will give me 180, 360 or 720 degrees at the turn of a rotary switch.

First up was to make the G25 adapter with the driving gear and the universal joint to couple to the extension shaft



I have to make an adapter to sit under the motor housing to hold it at the 25 degrees necessary to reduce the angular movement to a minimum, and I have also to sink the motor unit down so that the axis is as low as practicable



The driving gear meshes with a gear with 2 more teeth, so by putting stop blocks on the driven gear coincident with the correct teeth and at different pitches, I can use a rotating plate with cams to push pins into engagement and so limit, depending on which pin is engaged. The rotating stop plate will use microswitches to make the plate stop in the right position automatically.



I suspect both the stop pins and the blocks on the gear will end up being made from metal as I don't think that the ABS will be strong enough over time, but the gear was made 30mm wide to ensure that has enough strength to cope.

Next step is to evolve the attachment of these units to the frame

Les
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