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Old 26 November 11, 19:38   #1
jeroenvdb
 
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Default New racingwheel

http://steelseries.com/us/products/o...g-wheel#header



It is just a wheel though.
No base to mount on your desk and no forcefeedback.
You just hold it in the air in front of you and it will sense how you turn it.

But you could swap the wheel of a regular controller for this and enjoy the benefits of both.
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Old 26 November 11, 22:02   #2
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looks good and looks like they took a PS3 pad to bits for the six axis.
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Old 27 November 11, 11:52   #3
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Holy shit.
Thank you jeroen
I havent seen this comming.
Because my prob is that Im (partly) disabled and cannot use my legs for thr/br.
And nowadays its only the old Thrustmaster RGT that has some poorly thr/br paddles for finger use.
(I use an archadish non FFB Modena360 with better paddles).

But this Steelseries wheel looks fantastic. Pretty bloody fantastic.
And if it is working then it should be possible to mount it on a normal wheel mount. With or without FFb.
And then you will have a fantastic looking wheel with a lot of dials and buttons to play with.
Gonna check this out
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Old 27 November 11, 12:23   #4
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looks like sort of Wii remote with different case to me.
Racing with your hands floating in the air is bloody tiring. You can't rest your arms on anything and you have to hold the controller there for hours (depends on how long you're playing). I know because I play F1 2009 with Wii remote attached to wheel case.
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Old 27 November 11, 15:17   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrunoB View Post
And if it is working then it should be possible to mount it on a normal wheel mount. With or without FFb.
...
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Old 2 December 11, 09:24   #6
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Latest: It sounds like a german reviewer have got some extra inside info.
"Manufacturer SteelSeries has however kept open the possibility later to supply an attachment.
On the back of the unit is integrated in the plastic a stable acting steelthread."

http://www.golem.de/1111/88110.html

So it will probably be even easier to mount the wheel on a stand
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Old 2 December 11, 13:14   #7
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After an hour long race, I'm not sure I could still hold this up in front of me. Much less a full GP or an enduro. What about FFB?
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Old 3 December 11, 00:51   #8
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It doesn't have FFB.
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Old 3 December 11, 06:55   #9
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I love the idea, I saw this a little while ago on VirtualR I think... If I go somewhere with my laptop I just plug in the wheel and have a quick race Also the video of the wheel on youtube being used with pCARS shows that it looks pretty responsive aswell.
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Old 3 December 11, 07:22   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeroenvdb View Post
You just hold it in the air in front of you and it will sense how you turn it.
Should not be too hard to put on some sort of axle with adjustable stoppers.
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Old 3 December 11, 10:27   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrunoB View Post
Latest: It sounds like a german reviewer have got some extra inside info.
"Manufacturer SteelSeries has however kept open the possibility later to supply an attachment.
On the back of the unit is integrated in the plastic a stable acting steelthread."

http://www.golem.de/1111/88110.html

So it will probably be even easier to mount the wheel on a stand
nice
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Old 3 December 11, 15:52   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrunoB View Post
So it will probably be even easier to mount the wheel on a stand
I have just bought one of these "TSW Evolution, Ball Bearing Steering Shaft" to bolt the SRW-S1 on:
http://www.thomas-superwheel.com/ind...emart&Itemid=7
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Old 4 December 11, 10:14   #13
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Quote:
Because my prob is that Im (partly) disabled and cannot use my legs for thr/br.
And nowadays its only the old Thrustmaster RGT that has some poorly thr/br paddles for finger use.
Bruno I swear that I have readed somewhere that either ECCI or TSW also does a set of high quality analog paddles exactly for that kind of use, brake/throttle with your fingers if you can't use your legs. I can't find it right now, but if you want that type of paddles you should send an email to both of them and ask.
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Old 4 December 11, 13:11   #14
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Thank you Hitman.
And you are right about TSW . They make this kind of (custom) wheel af you ask them
But this solution is too expensive for me.
My own solution with the old Thrustmaster Modena works OK. The biggest prob is that this wheel only works with combined axis. No split thr/br.
And that is a bummer if you want to drive on the edge.
But Im pretty good on combined if you ask me

The newer Thrustmaster RGT is pretty trashy(IMO).
The movement of the thr/br paddles is so short that its close to 2x on/off switches.
---
But Im looking forward to my DIY mount for this Steelseries wheel.
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Old 3 February 12, 13:32   #15
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Is it al ready posible to use this wheel with the full functions for GTR2.
I have read that the Rev leds doesn't work on GTR2, and also the rotary buttons.
Is there a mod out there to fix this isue for this nice budget wheel.
Thanks.
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Old 4 February 12, 12:35   #16
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To the best of my knowledge most (not all) of the buttons or dials can be remapped to anything you want.
As I understand the wheel is acknowledged by Windows as a generic/general wheel using the default integrated driver.
The rev leds + 2-3 dials only works with Simraceways own rFactor sim/game.
I have decided to buy the wheel myself when it will be on sale in Denmark.
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Old 4 February 12, 16:20   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jostheboss View Post
Is it al ready posible to use this wheel with the full functions for GTR2.
I have read that the Rev leds doesn't work on GTR2, and also the rotary buttons.
Is there a mod out there to fix this isue for this nice budget wheel.
Thanks.
Hmmm so we only need a little mod for the rev led's in GTR2...
Lets contact the man of the G27 led mod and lets find out if he can help out.


fazerbox
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Old 26 February 12, 00:24   #18
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I just ordered one fron Bestbuy for $124.00 CAD delivered . I hope that nut on the back is strong enough to mount it, I,ll find out in a few days I guess.
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Old 26 February 12, 11:02   #19
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I have just ordered the wheel to the equvalent of $135 in Denmark.
And by the way. There is allready a small app/driver which should make it possible to get the RPM christmastree swinging for some of the newer racing games.
Conserning the mount to say a G25 base there is an italian guy who had made a very proff looking adapter.
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File Type: jpg SRW-S1_on_G25.jpg (14.0 KB, 228 views)
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Old 26 February 12, 13:19   #20
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One thing I couldnt find on their site was the power supply..batteries/rechargeable? Wonder how long it lasts on whatever is used
BrunoB, I await your test drive. Bet its got a very gentle FFB! Certainly is pretty!
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Old 26 February 12, 16:06   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigasawus View Post
One thing I couldnt find on their site was the power supply..batteries/rechargeable? Wonder how long it lasts on whatever is used
BrunoB, I await your test drive. Bet its got a very gentle FFB! Certainly is pretty!
Thanks but you will probably have to wait a while.
Because Im slowly workingforward on a combi of a ball bearing wheelMount + a quick Release thingie.
And both have to fit inside a Thrustmaster table mount with some sort of selfcreated centring mechanism. Shoehorn is the name of the game.

Conserning your FF remark. You are evil do you know that?
Because that is exactly the weak point in this wheel solution.
But - and that is urgent - I am so "lucky" that I have never got accustomed to any form of FF.

Oh. And the PSU question. Answer: USB
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Old 27 February 12, 15:49   #22
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Bruno, the TSW axis should have somewhere the mounting points for their springs. I think your axis is the same as in my own TSW720, so I can provide a picture of the springs mount if you want to see where they go and if something is missing. In the ordinary, 270 controllers the spring attaches to the axis on one side, and to the wheel chassis on the other side.

But I would also suggest that instead of springs you use a small damper, like these here, which should provide a much more realistic feel: http://www.amortiguadoresdegas.com/g...dex.aspx?id=11
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Old 27 February 12, 17:42   #23
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Holy shit Hitman. Are you allways shooting sparrows with cannons?
You are right there is some of handles on my TSW axis for 2x metal springs.
The reason Im not so keen for using these is because I have got used to the more soft feeling of the "simple" Thrustmaster solution.
Thrustmasters cheap wheels uses a simple rubber leash with a pretty smart but simple tightener (patent pending says Thrustmaster.
But I dont know if I can get it to fit inside my "shoehorn"

Theoretically you are right that there should be some damper mounted. But because I have got used to the undamped Thrustmasters I dont feel the need (at the moment
And by the way. Your direct-drive-wheel is king. Right?
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Old 27 February 12, 19:14   #24
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Does anyone know if the gear at the front of the TSW 720 is the some sort of damper, it looks interesting.
Bruno it looks like you are going to end up with a sweet little shoe horn. I hope the wheel works well,,,,for the both of us I guess. Still sitting here twitching my fingers waiting for delivery I,m still deciding on mounting on the Sidwinder FFb or going your route.
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Old 28 February 12, 09:55   #25
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Quote:
Your direct-drive-wheel is king. Right?
Not sure if I understand that

Quote:
Does anyone know if the gear at the front of the TSW 720 is the some sort of damper, it looks interesting
Don't know which gear you are referring to, but the TSW has no damper at all. I'm currently considering replacing one or both springs with a damper from the link I gave in the previous post, as it would provide a more accurate feel of "weight" without actually adding friction My only problem is determining what damping force to choose, as I have no idea how to measure my own springs (And besides, spring and damper force measurements are not the same).
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Old 28 February 12, 10:09   #26
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Um...if the wheel is truly remote as I took it to be (sort of like a Wii item), then ,do you meen that it recharges via USB? If so, obviously, it could be left connected when used in a fixed situation (then it need'nt be a remote either!!) Still, it IS ready to go without DIY build. Dont know if its a value for money item. Guess that depends, how its to be used & if it has competitors.
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Old 28 February 12, 11:41   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgis View Post
I,m still deciding on mounting on the Sidwinder FFb or going your route.
If you check out allmost all reviews they say that there is absolutely no lag in the wheel.
And if that is right it could be because this wheel uses aceleration sensors instead of normal potmeters.
So if you mount this wheel on some kind of other brand FFb mount then at least check out if the precision/lag of this wheel isnt better than the FFb mounts equivalent.
The reason I say this is because if you check most(all?) of the FFb mounts people have Youtubed then they are obviously not using the sensors in the SRW-S1 wheel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitman_M3 View Post
Not sure if I understand that
Sorry Hitman_M3 I thought you was the same as this other Hitman with probably the best PC wheel you can get even if you had a million.
http://insidesimracing.tv/forums/vie...p?f=110&t=4832
Tyrrell P34 replica cockpit
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Old 28 February 12, 14:34   #28
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Ah no not that one ... but give me that million and I'll do my best to make a better job
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Old 28 February 12, 17:16   #29
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Thumbs up SRW-S1 1800/1024 bit resolution!

I have just recieved my SRW-S1 wheel.
It is the nicest wheel I have had in my hands. No cute is a better word.
It just looks like a million(OK Hitman? )

In Windows it shows up as a generic 17 buttons wheel with an extra PoV.
I have just shortly tested it in the GTP mod for the NR2003, and it is fully functioning with all the buttons you can think of.

But I have some extra info none of the reviewers have talked about.
The reason everybody says the wheel has no lag and is very precise is probably because its resolution is some kind of 1800/1024 bit!
My own Thrustmaster has only a resolution of 512 bit but if you check my pic from DXTweak it says that this wheel has a L/R resolution of 1800 bit and a thr/br resolution of 1024.
I dont know about other more normal FFb wheels but I have an idea that some of them are only lousy 512 bit.

I just have to get back to my GTP mod and finetune the calibration and button mapping
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Old 28 February 12, 21:22   #30
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Don't buy this wheel. I bought one a couple of weeks ago. Played with it for one hour and it stopped working. I got a another one. I played with it this afternoon. A little over one hour ago, I wanted to play some more. Fired up my pc and found out that this one also stopped working, just like that.
Take my advice, don't buy this wheel!





Last edited by kikie; 30 December 12 at 09:48.
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Old 29 February 12, 04:15   #31
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Wow nice mount Kikie. What the heck is that ? I,ve never seen anything like it before.

I also just received my wheel today. So far no problems at all, time will tell I guess. I,m getting the same resaults as Bruno of 0 lag.
@Hitman M3
Quote:
Does anyone know if the gear at the front of the TSW 720 is the some sort of damper, it looks interesting.


I,ll try to explain with the case opent a square tube runs the width of the wheel case and on the steering axis it looks like there is a cogged gear on it. The photo i seen showed it full of grease. Sorry I cant remember where the photo is.

Last edited by bgis; 29 February 12 at 04:26.
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Old 29 February 12, 08:35   #32
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Sorry kikie that dont sounds good.
If you find the fault I hope you will give some feedback here.
Because if this is some kind of general scenario then there will be thousands of unsatisfied customers flooding the steelseries support.
Because to the best of my knowledge the wheel is selling pretty good in some countries/regions.

Nice setup by the way. I have seen that mount before from a german simmer who called himself Tankcomander or something.
He used it for the famous Thrustmaster F1 FFb wheel.
---
EDIT:
Sorry but would it be possible to see a photo showing precisely how you have made the fastening connection on the back of the wheel.
Please
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Old 29 February 12, 08:43   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrunoB View Post
Sorry kikie that dont sounds good.
If you find the fault I hope you will give some feedback here.
Because if this is some kind of general scenario then there will be thousands of unsatisfied customers flooding the steelseries support.
Because to the best of my knowledge the wheel is selling pretty good in some countries/regions.

Nice setup by the way. I have seen that mount before from a german simmer who called himself Tankcomander or something.
He used it for the famous Thrustmaster F1 FFb wheel.
---
To clearify a bit. The steering wheel column is an old BRD gameport steering wheel. It's non functional and not plugged into the pc. It's only used to hard mount the SRW S1 steering wheel on with only one 4mm screw. And no, if someone should ask, the screw is not screwed in too far so that is not the problem.

If/when this wheels works, it's working better than the G27. It's very smooth because there are no mechanical parts, no FFB motor(s).
If someone buys this wheel, you have to be able to mount it on something. Holding it up in the air feels so unnatural. And it's best to buy standalone USB pedals as well (or a Leo Bodnar box to make the G27 pedals a standalone USB pedal box).

When you put this wheel in 360 mode and you have to turn 180 you can barely reach the throttle or brake paddle. You have to straighten out the wheel again before you can apply the throttle again. The throttle and brake pedal are very good though.

The fact that it stopped working, again, has absolutely nothing to do with hard mounting it on the steering column. It's an electronic's problem.

The wheel is very direct, response very well and is a very nice and very good wheel to play with. The lack of FFB is no issue but I never liked strong FFB anyway in either wheel.

The two big issues I have with this wheel, besides that two wheels stopped working within less than a weeks play, are the throttle and brake paddles behind the wheel (unless you set the wheel to max 200) and that it is only 360. 360 is more than enough if you play race games or sims but when I started playing Dirt 3 (rally games in general), it is too sensitive when set at a lower steering lock. When you set it to 360, it's not sensitive enough when playing dirt 3. This wheel is very difficult to set up in NFS shift (1), Grid and Dirt 2 and 3. It is very good with Race On, 1nsane, flatout Ultimate carnage, Netkar Pro, rFactor.

It's a good wheel when it's working.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BrunoB View Post
EDIT:
Sorry but would it be possible to see a photo showing precisely how you have made the fastening connection on the back of the wheel.
Please
Yes ofcourse. Tell me what you want to know and I will try to explain it how I did it.












Last edited by kikie; 29 February 12 at 09:04.
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Old 29 February 12, 10:22   #34
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First I must admit that Im rather worried about your 2 "broken" wheels.
Statistically it shouldnt be possible that you got the 2 only produced wheel with an inbuild error.
Thats the reason Im worried.

And thank you very much for the photos. Very appreciated.
They are exactly what I needed to give me some inspiration for the backplate to fit my wheel to the TSW stand I allready have.
Conserning the described problems with the handcontrolled thr/br then it will probably not be a problem for me.
Because I have over the years got accustomed to using my fingers to play with equal paddles while both turning the wheel and make the gearshifts with other fingers.
So on that part Im not worried at all.

Conserning the sensitivity setting(degrees) of the wheel Im so fortunate that I have made a list from my Modena of how exactly the different degrees from the real wheel is converted to the virtual wheel in the sim.
Ie when the Modena is turned 10 degrees to the right how many degrees is then the virtual wheel in the sim turned.
So I just have to setup my new wheel to the same convertion factor.

Question: Are you on your 3rd wheel or have you found a way to get it working?
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Old 29 February 12, 10:45   #35
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I don't have a replacement wheel yet. I'm going on friday to the local official steelseries distributor. I hope I get a new one.
If I should get a new one, I'm afraid to use it.

I can't think of anything I did wrong. I was playing with it in the afternoon. Stopped playing, put it aside, went to the local Gym, came home, fired up the pc and I immediately saw that it wasn't working anymore. This second wheel showed the same problem as the first one. That's why I know there was something wrong.
If you fire up your pc and the LED's are lit (all of them or a few of them), than you know that you have a problem.

What is this Modena you're talking about? That list seems to be interesting.
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Old 29 February 12, 14:00   #36
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Quote:
I,ll try to explain with the case opent a square tube runs the width of the wheel case and on the steering axis it looks like there is a cogged gear on it.
No, it's not a damping system, it's just a pivot point for the steering axis. It's big because inside it there's a cage with ball bearings, so it turns around smoothly.
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Old 29 February 12, 16:49   #37
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Thanks the TSW looks really well built.
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Old 29 February 12, 20:34   #38
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Hey kikie
I have reconsidered my attitude to your warning to anybody against buying this wheel just because it suddenly dont function on YOUR computer.
It was precisely the fact that you say that you have had 2 copies of this wheel and they both suddenly stopped working that wakened my suspicion.
Because statistically it should be impossible for the same person to get 2 broken copies of a wheel nobody else have had problems with.
And we dont even knows if your 2 copies actually are broken.
They just stopped functioning on your system!

So Until I hear anything else I consider the fault is placed somewhere else than inside the wheel(s).
The fact that you probably also will get it replaced the 3rd time dont say anything about the wheel.
It only say something about the service.

My own copy are functioning absolutely perfect. And it have been on more than 4 hours without any problems.
I have just calibrated it precisely as my old Thrustmaster Modena360 but eventhough the airplay sucks (my old arms hurts after about 1 hour) the driving control from this wheel is so much smoother than anything else I have tried.
And for the first time I have now split axis.
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Old 1 March 12, 13:10   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrunoB View Post
Hey kikie
I have reconsidered my attitude to your warning to anybody against buying this wheel just because it suddenly dont function on YOUR computer.
It was precisely the fact that you say that you have had 2 copies of this wheel and they both suddenly stopped working that wakened my suspicion.
Because statistically it should be impossible for the same person to get 2 broken copies of a wheel nobody else have had problems with.
And we dont even knows if your 2 copies actually are broken.
They just stopped functioning on your system!

So Until I hear anything else I consider the fault is placed somewhere else than inside the wheel(s).
The fact that you probably also will get it replaced the 3rd time dont say anything about the wheel.
It only say something about the service.

My own copy are functioning absolutely perfect. And it have been on more than 4 hours without any problems.
I have just calibrated it precisely as my old Thrustmaster Modena360 but eventhough the airplay sucks (my old arms hurts after about 1 hour) the driving control from this wheel is so much smoother than anything else I have tried.
And for the first time I have now split axis.
It's the wheel that is broken, believe me. I tried on another computer as well with the same result. It doesn't work on this computer either. My pc has XP home sp3 and the other pc has windows 7.

The fact that you havent't heard of other wheels being broken doesn't mean that I'm the only one. BTW, ignite told me that it was probably a faulty unit.
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Old 1 March 12, 13:22   #40
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OK. But an explanation for that could easily be something like the following!

I have a single bid to what could have broken kikies two wheels. Could have.
But I have to admit that I dont really know if I fully believe in this myself.
But.. and here comes the reason I honestly consider it possible:
When you have the SRW wheel plugged into your puter and you turn the puter on the whole SRW RPM christmasLeds flashes.
If you instead turns the puter on first and then plug the SRW wheel in the USB port there is no christmas flashing.
So if you have a puter with a PSU which at turn on shortly let the 12v rail on the USB port goes up to say 15-20v or whatever and you have a USB device (a wheel maybe plugged in, then a kind of damage can possibly occur. At least if the wheel dont like to get its ass christmas roasted.

So until further news I wait and plug only my SRW wheel in AFTER the puter has started. You see. I AM a bit worried.

It is quite normal in situations where people loudly express that others (products) are to blame that they never come back and give the right explanation of what was wrong.
But lets hope this example is not that normal
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Old 1 March 12, 16:39   #41
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I just got news from Simraceway and steelseries that an USB extention cable can't cause any problems. You see, I thought it was probably the USB extention cable that I use that caused the problems.

After reading what you said, I have to admit that that could be the cause. Could be because I don't know what exactly is wrong. I don't know if that is even possible that the PSU sends more voltage over a USB cable when firing up. If that is the case, why is it that only the SRW S1 is broken. I have other gaming device constantly connected to my pc through USB ==> http://www.symprojects.com/

If I get a new wheel tomorrow, I'll definitely going to do what you said. Plug the wheel in after the computer is up and running.

Or my computer is malfunctioning. It has always been a troublesome pc. And even now after reinstalling XP, this pc still freezes and can't do anything but shutting down the power.
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Old 1 March 12, 17:11   #42
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I agree that this is what in english is called a wild shot.
But the wheels difference in behaviour when you have it plugged in at puter start or when you plug it in later must have a reason. And if some of the other USB devices you are refering to behaves the same it would be good to know.

And conserning if this PSU thing is possible. Ofcourse it is!
A PSU is just a material thing that can behave fully as intended or not so fully.

And the reason I have decided NOT to have the wheel plugged in at start eventhough I have a pretty trustworthy (and expensive) PSU is because your experience could point at some extra sensitivity for this kind of puter malfunctioning in the wheel.
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Old 1 March 12, 18:42   #43
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A friend of mine is a computer technician/electrician (works in a computer store) said that this is probably not possible if everything is working as it should because there is a fail safe on the motherboard to prevent exactly what you said.
He is going to test the USB ports on this computer, tomorrow.

And I have a joystick at the same USB port with the same USB extention cable plugged in for a couple of days now and it is still working.
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Old 1 March 12, 19:23   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrunoB View Post
could point at some extra sensitivity for this kind of puter malfunctioning in the wheel.
Hopefully he is able to measure a very short burst of voltage. Or else the measurement is of rather limited value.

"said that this is probably not possible"
He must be joking. Everything like this is possible.
And is actually happening all the time.
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Old 2 March 12, 04:54   #45
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kiki I hope you can get it all going. Seeing the work you put into your wheel you obviously want it to work.

Bruno how is the wheel build going? I decided to not put the wheel on the Sidewinder . I am going to use the front end of an old pedal car with a canister/bottle at the bottom of the steering shaft for resistance and centering. I have to find out if you can get telemetry output for right,left, front,rear channels for base shakers (going to mount one on each spindle) I have no idea if this will work well. The cost is only $40.00 for 4 shakers so what the heck why not experiment This is being mounted on the frame of my t500 pedal set. lol -1800--1800+ can,t wait to try it on a stable base.
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Old 2 March 12, 10:08   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgis View Post
Bruno how is the wheel build going?
Hahaha. It IS going. But slowly.
At the moment I have just sawed the T-stick from the TSW axle (TSWs simple way to connect axle/wheel) with a Grinder because I will have to prepare the axle to glue the Tyagi quick release on.
But my problem now is that the difference between the axle diameter and the inside hub dia of the Tyagi is 3.2mm! So I will have to find some thingie(?) of precisely 3.2/2 = 1.6mm to insert between axle and hub so the axle is fixed exactly in the middle of the hub while the Araldite glue hardens.
Because if it is not fixed very precisely then the wheel will move sideways or unregular when you turn the wheel.
All these small things are allready done when you buy a commercial wheel with stand but you have to mess with EVERYTHING when you are going the custom way

But something that keeps me going is the fantastic feeling of the wheel (even airplayed). Because (as I have told before) its so fu....ng precise and smooth. And all the nice buttons and dials works just so perfect.
Cutest wheel I have layed my hands on.
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Old 2 March 12, 13:27   #47
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I understand what you mean about getting the mount correct. I want to utilize the 3 bosses on the back of the wheel to carry the weight of the mount. It looks to me like the spacing on it is similar to a Momo 3 hole wheel design. I,m going to look it up when I come home tonight. If it is the Momo that will be great because the fit will be very accurate. Good luck with the glue !
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Old 2 March 12, 13:56   #48
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When it comes to the voltage from a PC killing a wheel I know how that feels, it is very real

When I got my new PC, I let the computer shop put it all together as it saved time and I figured I would have screwed it up. The second I got it home I set up my DFGT and for some reason plugged it into one of the front 2 USB ports. It was a strange thing I have to admit because I normally would NEVER plug a wheel into the front USB ports, maybe I was just impatient and couldn't be bothered reaching behind the PC.
Turns out the guy who put my PC together connected the wires for the front 2 USB ports into a Firewire connector on the motherboard, which runs 30v compared to the lesser voltage of USB output. So what happened was as soon as I connected the wheel via USB my computer restarted, and when it loaded up again my wheel was dead, no recognition or detection what so ever. Not even in the PS3, nothing at all.

And thats how I learned that Firewire has a higher voltage than USB, and that if you plug any USB devices into it, your device will get fried and die instantly

I laugh about it now because it's been a few months since it happened, but I do with I had my DFGT back and could stop using my MOMO Racing wheel again
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Old 2 March 12, 17:30   #49
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Bruno where did you get the Tyagi quick release and how much it cost, if I may ask? I have ordered a large nascar-style wheel for my TSW and I want to be able to swap it comfortably with the road racing wheel.
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Old 2 March 12, 18:36   #50
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3 posts I have comments to. I really feel important
Quote:
Originally Posted by bgis View Post
It looks to me like the spacing on it is similar to a Momo 3 hole wheel design. I,m going to look it up when I come home tonight.
I have seen in a thread somewhere that these 3 knobs fits exactly into a Momo.
So if that is right then lucky you
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoboholic View Post
Firewire has a higher voltage than USB
Sorry to hear that about your wheel. But conserned Firewire/USB the worst is (if Im right) that it should be possible by a mistake to plug a USB device into an Firewire port.
Goodbye USB device
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitman_M3 View Post
Bruno where did you get the Tyagi quick release and how much it cost, if I may ask?
You are welcome.
I bought 3 of these directly at Tyagi UK (cheaper to import from inside EU.
https://www.tyagiracing.com/products...b-6-Holes.html

But afterwards I found that because there is a big hole in the Tyagi backplate/adaptor in my model exactly where you would need a small 4mm hole to fit to the SRW wheel it is much better to buy the following quick release kit where the adapter has no central hole. = its ready for you to drill.
https://www.tyagiracing.com/products...%7B47%7D8.html
Because of that mistake I will have to screw the the adaptor and create (more messing around) one of aluminimum instead.

Tyagi has a very kind user service. But a rather confused shipping department. Because eventhough I had some rather exact mailing correspondance before ordering/shipping they shipped wrong dimension hubs. But corrected it in 2 weeks without wanting the wrong parts back
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