New racingwheel - Page 2

BrunoB · 2 March 12, 18:39

forgot the pics

Hitman_M3 · 2 March 12, 20:03

Excellent, many thanks!!

Stigasawus · 3 March 12, 08:56

You guys sound as slow as I am, meanwhile I'm waiting..waiting..not holding breath.
Must find out if these exist in Aus. & how many million dollars they expect to sell them for.
By the way, I looked at various steering quick releases, until the brain circuits kicked in & I decided..I dont have to escape in a hurry etc. Now I'm just going to make my own version with one base & a different adaptor for each wheel & locating pins + probably only One central hold down with allen key to tighten/loosen. I have the item sourced, its a furniture fastener with a wide flange & low profile. (So I wont injure myself in a prang!)

kikie · 3 March 12, 15:42

I just got my pc back from the store and it seems to be a (nothing definitely) problem.
I got my third wheel and I'm NOT going to plug it in my computer again.

I had the opportunity to choose between the SRW S1 and a G27. I chose for the SRW S1 because this is a much better wheel than the G27.

Does anyone know how to use the 3 other mounting holes at the back of the SRW S1?

bgis · 3 March 12, 16:59

I,m going to use the 3 bosses on the back to carry the load on the mount. I plan on using hex head screws at the 3 points, the screw head is what goes into the boss. I can send you a picture or Autocad file if you want. Once I know for sure the wheel is not going to fail I,m adding a high quality velcro between plate and wheel for added strength. I want to stay away from the center screw hole if I can.

BrunoB · 3 March 12, 18:03

The best use I have seen of the 3 "knobs" on the TSW backside is this italian guy who have made a square adapterplate with 3 indentations fitting the "knobs".
My plan is to follow him exactly but fasten this square plate(aluminium) to my quick release.
This fastening part to the QR looks like piece of cake. And like the italian I will use the TSW center screw hole because to the contrary of bgis I have concluded that this center screw fastening is pretty straightforward. Because if you place a 4mm bolt into it you can feel that you get in contact with some kind of metal nut that is NOT glued or fastened to the plastic around. Its pretty loose because the nut fastening is some kind of flange(right word?) pressing from the inside of the plastic cover.
My conclusion is that if you dont overtighten the center screw you have a pretty solid mount.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...62491031835953
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c4ee...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa8XP...eature=related

PS. My TSW is still working perfect kikie

bgis · 3 March 12, 18:26

Bruno thats exactly the same as I planed other than adding hex head screws in the cut out portion of the plate. The head is inside the boss and screwed into the plate. If you had access to a mill you could just leave the material so no need for hex heads.I put a 4 mm in the center hole and it does seem strong. It must be on the wheel for a reason. In the end what ever works for you with the least amount of hassle is good

BrunoB · 3 March 12, 19:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgis

Bruno thats exactly the same as I planed other than adding hex head screws in the cut out portion of the plate. (-)
I put a 4 mm in the center hole and it does seem strong. It must be on the wheel for a reason.

Wut? But you said:

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgis

I want to stay away from the center screw hole if I can. .

bgis · 4 March 12, 02:04

I didnt say that properly Bruno. What I mean is I want the load distributed and not just on the center screw itself.

BrunoB · 4 March 12, 10:35

OK that make sense. And you probably understand that I dont try to make a quarrel but just try to understand what your mounting strategy will be

At the moment Im cursing the american idioti of not going metric. Because the 3 hex screws (Umbraco) on my Tyagi quick release are not metric. So its close to impossible here in Denmark to find a wrench fitting these screws. If you ask me then this kind of clinging to an archadic format is lousy provencial/arrogant.

Hahaha. I can remember that I laughed to death when the american Mars unit crashed into the planets surface just because NASA had forgot to convert some metric values to their own archadic national format.

Stigasawus · 4 March 12, 13:24

Sadly, the links to Australian distributors are useless. Sometimes it feels a long way from the rest of the world down here, funny when its probably made in china like everything elseon the planet these days & thats not so far away, damnit!

BrunoB · 4 March 12, 14:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stigasawus

Sadly, the links to Australian distributors are useless. -damnit!

Hey Stigasawus are you talking about an australian seller of the Tyagi thingie?
Because have you tried to contact the US destributor in my link and ask them for the price incl PP to down under?

I wont promise anything but if its quite impossible for you to get the Tyagi at an adfordable price then I (maybe) can be persuated to sell one of the 3 copies I have.
The cost for me have been £79.04/3 = £26.35.
But you can probably figure out the PP to Australia when I tell that the total weight for 1 kit with adaptor plate is 480g.

BrunoB · 5 March 12, 07:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrunoB

Because have you tried to contact the US destributor in my link and ask them for the price incl PP to down under?

Stupid me. Ofcourse it shouldnt have been the US destributor but the UK!! destributor. Because as I said I bought the Tyagi from inside EU

Hitman_M3 · 5 March 12, 19:43

Is it only me or does the wheel in the video show some lag in response?

BrunoB · 5 March 12, 20:29

My personal experience is that there is absolutely no lag/delay.
And without knowing it I think that if you compare videos displaying this wheel with videos displaying other wheels a possible delay(!) will probably be less for this wheel because of the higher sensor bitrate.

BrunoB · 8 March 12, 11:16

A few reviewers have expressed some consern because the SRW wheel dont include a kind of manuel or automatic zero point calibration.
But its because they dont understand how modern acceleration sensors work.

Take an iPhone or other device where the picture orientation have to use the up/down orientation to know the exact positioning of the phone.
Do you have to calibrate your mobile?
Ofcourse not.

Because acceleration sensors perceived gravity as acceleration!

And because the SRW-S1 wheel use a 1800 bit acceleration sensor as an advanced L/R sensor you dont have to use a goofy manuel or like most old fashion FFB whells an automatic L/R calibration at wheel switch on.

My personal experience with the SRW-S1 wheel when I check the absolute L/R orientation with a util like DXTweak2 is that its allways spot on.
Not 0.5 degrees to the L/R. Until now there have been zero(0) deviation with this wheel.
And that means too that unlike others (even highend) wheels there is no (automatic) recalibration going on while you play with all the error possibilities some people have noted.
Looking bright for some very exact and precise simming

Stigasawus · 10 March 12, 10:17

Looked for a way to email USA thanks Bruno...cant see one on their site. Might do better with their listed suppliers in Oz even though they dont seem to list it yet...maybe they need a shove!

BrunoB · 11 March 12, 09:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stigasawus

Looked for a way to email USA thanks Bruno...cant see one on their site.

But have you tried to mail their UK branch (in my link)? Maybe they can figure something out. Like shipping to Austr or giving you a better link than mine.
After all they are interrested to sell and to the best of my knowledge Tyagi is a pretty large player in motorracing stuff.

So good luck and I can tell you that the quick release is pretty cool in my own slowly progressing project.

kikie · 11 March 12, 15:22

I'm back. I got my computer back since yesterday. The technician said that the motherboard was unstable. He upgraded the bios. I've been using this pc for the better part of today and until now, no problems at all (knock on wood).

I'm afraid to plug in my (third

) wheel.

Hitman_M3 · 11 March 12, 17:16

Quote:

I'm afraid to plug in my (third ) wheel.

Do it so we all can see if it is the wheel's fault or not

LOL

kikie · 11 March 12, 17:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hitman_M3

Do it so we all can see if it is the wheel's fault or not

LOL

I tried it and no problems so far. Still .....

BrunoB · 12 March 12, 09:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by kikie

The technician said that the motherboard was unstable. He upgraded the bios.

If the MB is unstable because of some HW issue upgrading the bios is just a joke.
Or something the technician just did because what else should he do.
If the reason before was a voltage spike or something ala my wild guesses then it will probably return and roast your 3rd wheel too.

kikie · 12 March 12, 11:43

Steelseries said that it is normal that the LED's flash when you switch on the computer. It's a sign that the wheel is working. It doesn't matter if you keep the wheel plugged in or not.

I definitely don't want to destroy my third wheel.
What is "HW issue"?

BrunoB · 13 March 12, 08:47

HW=HardWare

kikie · 13 March 12, 13:15

I have decided to sell my SRW S1. The alternative is to buy a new computer and that is too expensive.

EDIT: changed my mind and bought a new motherboard. I'm not going to sell my SRW S1

Hitman_M3 · 22 March 12, 15:48

Bruno do you have a picture of how you attached the quick release hub to the TSW axis? Would be useful to me

BrunoB · 23 March 12, 00:37

I know it sounds like Im lazy but Im very slowly progressing because it has been almost impossible to fit the TSW axis into the Thrustmaster house - and be able to close it

But today I succededed by lowering the TSW even further with a grinder.

But because I still need to finish the custom center mechanism BEFORE I glue the quick release hex rod on the TSW axle (allready sawed the T piece off the axle) - I still havent attached(glued) the hex on the axle.
My strategy will be to stick some small pieces of 1.6mm piano wire between axle and hex to make up for the dif in diameter( 16mm(hex inside) vs 12.5(TSW axle outside) and fix the 2 parts while the glue(Araldite) is hardening. The reason Im postponing the glueing is because the wheels final horisontal position is fully dependent of excact positioning of the wheel before glueing.

My intention is to make a short picture documentation of the whole process. But I can allready see now that the full unit (mount + wheel) will look very prof attached on the desk

Hitman_M3 · 23 March 12, 15:36

Quote:

I still need to finish the custom center mechanism BEFORE I glue the quick release hex rod on the TSW axle (allready sawed the T piece off the axle) - I still havent attached(glued) the hex on the axle.

Well that pretty much explains it ... I suspected so much when looking at both parts and seeing that the one apparently destined to hold to the steering column/axis was round. You sawed the T part out, that's logical, but I would never glue that thing if I could solder it. Problem is that it's iron/steel (TSW Axis) against aluminium (Quick release) and I suspect that it won't work well. Damn...

BrunoB · 23 March 12, 19:03

The hex´s in my kits (probably all kits) are made of steel so it could probably be welded (not soldered) to the axle as intended in a real racing car.
But that would by garantee destroy the TSW ball bearings placed just 3-4cm away.
But its not a problem.
Because are you sure you know the strength of Araldite?
The curved roofs in the Utzon Opera House in Sydney is glued with Araldite

And they are a bit heavier than this tiny wheel.
Araldite is one of the strongest glues in the world so it fits nicely to this project.
OK?

Hitman_M3 · 23 March 12, 20:16

I know it's a tough thing, but the problem is the diameter difference and the fact that you are rotating the wheel and not simply doing a linear force. I fear not that Araldite will not be strong enough, but that it will not be able to bite well to show its qualities.

BrunoB · 24 March 12, 08:57

I have allready prepared the 2 surfaces with grinder foil(?) so they stand pretty rough when they recieve the the Araldite. That should be perfect for the glueing process.

The only real prob is to get the axle positioned right inside the hex because the dif in diameters. But Im pretty optimistic because I have allready tested the trick with the pieces of piano wire and its looking good.

And not to scare others I can add that the only reason it has taken so long is because I have been so focused of getting it all to fit into the Thrustmaster box. Had I accepted not to be able to use the roof(top of the box) then I had probabl finished the project month ago.

Stigasawus · 24 March 12, 10:00

Sounds a bit like you guys are using what I call the Braille method on this wheel. Warranty or not I cannot resist pulling things apart carefully in reverse order to what I think they must have been assembled until I think I understand them (eg the nut you think is inside). I'd like to know that I was spreading the load or maybe sandwiching weak plastic between metal, to spread the load. Plastic has a habit of dissapearing when something is loose (like that nut).

Hope this thing is not glued together or you might have to drive with your fingers crossed. Dont you hate it when manufacturers use tricks, like fancy screw heads, to keep us dummys out.

Interesting to follow your adventures.

BrunoB · 24 March 12, 17:27

When I have finished and tested my wheel and mount I have decided to open the wheel myself. Mainly to finetune the clicking point of the 2 gearshift switches. On both you have to push about 10mm before shifting. And that is too much if you are driving for milisecs in a league

I can allready now tell you that this wheel is not glued together or other crazy things to make it impossible to open. The backplate is pretty simple fixed with some normal looking hex bolts.

Conserning the strenght of the central fixing screw I have allready tested it. Because I have allready mounted my quick release hub via the alu plate I have created with indentation for the positions points on the wheel.
The strength of the central fixing bolt(nut) is more than adequate.
The only way of ripping the wheel of the qRelease will be to use so much force that the whole backplate is twisted off.

bgis · 31 March 12, 06:41

Wow not impressed at all!. i have been waiting for my aluminum back plate to come back from being milled by a friend. My wheel has been sitting unplugged and I decide to give it a go without a mount. Dead .........plug it in and half the lights flash once and then no recognition in control panel. It does the same thing every time , I can plug and unplug and it gives the flash windows recognition beep then dies. So far I have spent about $80 on alum plate, casting material to make a mold and acrylic resin to fill it.
Bruno I hope yours is OK and stays that way.......dont unplug it !!

BrunoB · 31 March 12, 07:38

I have just accomplished my mission yesterday.
Wheel and mount are functioning 110%. And it is looking absolutely amazing when its fixed on the table.

I have just burrowed a camera today and will be publishing pictures of the whole process monday as a kind of assembling manual/documentary.

But at the moment Im just enjoying it. Trying to get the same driving feeling as I have using my 10 years old(more

Thrustmaster Modena wheel.
And to repeat myself. The L/R & thr/brake movement and the SRW-S1 wheel is so fu...ng smooth. Its pretty bloody fantastic on a mount.

bgis · 31 March 12, 11:50

Thats great Bruno I am really looking forward to getting my mount finished. The way my wheel is acting I think it could be a cold solder joint problem. I applied for an RMA number from Bestbuy so i hope to have a new wheel in a few days.
Just sitting here ready to pack up my wheel and you sure are right about the break and gas. The gear selectors have a nice solid feel and nice click to them also. Looking forward to some photos of your build. I will post a few when mine gets done ...it feels like it,s taking forever. Enjoy yourself man it,s well earned

bgis · 31 March 12, 12:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stigasawus

Sounds a bit like you guys are using what I call the Braille method on this wheel. Warranty or not I cannot resist pulling things apart carefully in reverse order to what I think they must have been assembled until I think I understand them (eg the nut you think is inside). I'd like to know that I was spreading the load or maybe sandwiching weak plastic between metal, to spread the load. Plastic has a habit of dissapearing when something is loose (like that nut).

Hope this thing is not glued together or you might have to drive with your fingers crossed. Dont you hate it when manufacturers use tricks, like fancy screw heads, to keep us dummys out.

Interesting to follow your adventures.

or one of those stickers that cover the last screw hole and say IF Removed Warranty Invalid

BrunoB · 31 March 12, 15:18

Teaser

Hitman_M3 · 1 April 12, 16:42

That looks truly professional Bruno, good job!

BrunoB · 1 April 12, 17:36

Thank you. It looks even better in reality

But here we go. A day before I promissed.

Because of the great interrest and because I have created a fullblown manual for you folks if you want to get serious with the SRW-S1 wheel.
By that I mean making a custom mount to the SRW-S1.
So I have decided to publish the manual as a Word document with all the pictures you can possibly think of.
And some hints of how-to-do.
You can download SRW-S1 - From toy to mounted PC wheel.doc from my Dropbox

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/29587629/SRW...PC%20wheel.doc

BrunoB · 2 April 12, 16:07

Something that I havent thought of before I started this project is the cool-factor.
Its pretty cool when you are going to spend some racetime
that you just open your safe

take your SRW wheel out
and with a cool metallic click the quick release snaps the wheel on the TSW axle.
Ready to go gentlemen

bgis · 4 April 12, 05:53

Hello Bruno
I had my wheel replaced by Bestbuy, they carry it in store now so at least I did,nt have to wait for shipping. I,m still waiting on my back plate and figured I,m tired of waiting so I started making one with a hockey puck. I should have it going by tomorrow night ..........can,t wait

. I noticed something in the small instruction paper that comes with the wheel that is either new or I missed it first time. Says they are selling an optional desk mount and points to the mount points on the back. Does your paper show that ?

Stigasawus · 4 April 12, 07:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgis

Hello Bruno
I had my wheel replaced by Bestbuy, they carry it in store now so at least I did,nt have to wait for shipping. I,m still waiting on my back plate and figured I,m tired of waiting so I started making one with a hockey puck. I should have it going by tomorrow night ..........can,t wait

. I noticed something in the small instruction paper that comes with the wheel that is either new or I missed it first time. Says they are selling an optional desk mount and points to the mount points on the back. Does your paper show that ?

I love it! Now its discovered that you've all been re-inventing the wheel (well desk mount to be exact) Well its all good clean fun! Bit worried about Bruno..keeping his in a safe !!! Must be a rough neighbourhood Bruno !
Still following the adventures of you all...wife has found a distraction for me..again..only got time to look at my sim as I pass by...as Arnie said I'll be baaark!

BrunoB · 4 April 12, 07:42

@Stiga..
You never know who come around

@Bgis
This notice has been there all from the beginning. And some of the reviewers have refered to it as something to come. But Simraceway are silent.

BrunoB · 6 April 12, 10:16

I had never imagined that I should post this

But the friction/damping in my TSW axle is so low(zero) that its close to impossible not to "overshoot"/overcorrect when you are saving a slide.
Bear in mind that I have been racing for 10 years+ with the mentioned undamped Modena wheel. So this is a complete surprise for me.

The only advantage with the SRW wheel is that because the reaction time is so low and the resolution so high your driving correction starts faster.
My own conclusion is that because the Modena had no ball bearings there was some kind of "automatic" damping of the L/R movement that did help not to overshoot so much.

So eventhough I have allways advocated the advantage of a non-FF wheel against the goofy and complete unrealistic FF solutions on the marked today (except some few custom designed direct-drive wheels) I am now a bit closer to consider that my next project should be a direct-drive FF unit using my cute SRW-S1 wheel.
Because then you could tune the damping to something as in real life.
That would be something.

Stigasawus · 8 April 12, 09:27

Lower tyre pressures?

BrunoB · 8 April 12, 10:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stigasawus

Lower tyre pressures?

A rethorical question Mr. Stigasawus

Do you really think that this change from my old Modena to the new zero friction SRW-S1 unit have raised the tyre pressure so I now have to lower it?

Hitman_M3 · 8 April 12, 19:04

As I already suggested some posts ago, try using dampers instead of springs to provide return force.

BrunoB · 9 April 12, 07:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hitman_M3

As I already suggested some posts ago, try using dampers instead of springs to provide return force.

Yeah I remember that. And have allready asked a danish firm selling this kind of "dampers".
But they dont damp anything! It is only a kind of springs which uses gas instead of metalsprings. And they use oil to reduce the small friction (damping) to nothing.
You can check it here where I have translated the text in your link and the text from the danish firm.
Its (probably) the same kind of gassprings you refeer to as gasdampers.

http://www.amortiguadoresdegas.com/g...dex.aspx?id=11
Nitrider ® gas spring with ties soldiers
Shock absorbers / springs gas that have the most advanced sealing technique for longer life.
The body is coated in black and the stem surface is nitrided for durability against corrosion.
Eye Ties are welded to each end and are also in black. These gas springs are ideal for applications where space is limited.

http://www.fjedre.dk/online-shop/gas...dre-traek.aspx
Pull the gas springs include useful when conventional tension springs can not be used due to lack of space, power, or hiking.
Pull the gas springs contain as a lubricant a special kind of fat instead of oil.
This type of lubrication ensures that the packages mm. remain lubricated during storage and installation at any angle. Pull the gas springs are without damping.

bgis · 12 April 12, 10:45

Bruno in case you missed it, the sensitivity dial on the wheel makes a big difference in the feel. I also had problems untill I set it to 3 clicks off of the 360 mark . I dont know how the numbering goes. In the Simraceway game the setup shows your wheel movement and I just moved the dial untill it matched with the movement on screen.

3 March 12, 18:26	#57
bgis Join Date: Sep 2008	Bruno thats exactly the same as I planed other than adding hex head screws in the cut out portion of the plate. The head is inside the boss and screwed into the plate. If you had access to a mill you could just leave the material so no need for hex heads.I put a 4 mm in the center hole and it does seem strong. It must be on the wheel for a reason. In the end what ever works for you with the least amount of hassle is good Last edited by bgis; 3 March 12 at 19:02.

8 March 12, 11:16	#66
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	Normal calibration vs acceleration sensor. A few reviewers have expressed some consern because the SRW wheel dont include a kind of manuel or automatic zero point calibration. But its because they dont understand how modern acceleration sensors work. Take an iPhone or other device where the picture orientation have to use the up/down orientation to know the exact positioning of the phone. Do you have to calibrate your mobile? Ofcourse not. Because acceleration sensors perceived gravity as acceleration! And because the SRW-S1 wheel use a 1800 bit acceleration sensor as an advanced L/R sensor you dont have to use a goofy manuel or like most old fashion FFB whells an automatic L/R calibration at wheel switch on. My personal experience with the SRW-S1 wheel when I check the absolute L/R orientation with a util like DXTweak2 is that its allways spot on. Not 0.5 degrees to the L/R. Until now there have been zero(0) deviation with this wheel. And that means too that unlike others (even highend) wheels there is no (automatic) recalibration going on while you play with all the error possibilities some people have noted. Looking bright for some very exact and precise simming

12 March 12, 11:43	#73
kikie Join Date: Jul 2008	Steelseries said that it is normal that the LED's flash when you switch on the computer. It's a sign that the wheel is working. It doesn't matter if you keep the wheel plugged in or not. I definitely don't want to destroy my third wheel. What is "HW issue"? Last edited by kikie; 12 March 12 at 14:54.

13 March 12, 13:15	#75
kikie Join Date: Jul 2008	I have decided to sell my SRW S1. The alternative is to buy a new computer and that is too expensive. EDIT: changed my mind and bought a new motherboard. I'm not going to sell my SRW S1 Last edited by kikie; 15 March 12 at 18:09.

2 April 12, 16:07	#91
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	Cool-factor Something that I havent thought of before I started this project is the cool-factor. Its pretty cool when you are going to spend some racetime that you just open your safe take your SRW wheel out and with a cool metallic click the quick release snaps the wheel on the TSW axle. Ready to go gentlemen

2 March 12, 20:03	#52
Hitman_M3 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Valencia, Spain	Excellent, many thanks!!

3 March 12, 08:56	#53
Stigasawus Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Drivers Seat,Australia Age: 64	You guys sound as slow as I am, meanwhile I'm waiting..waiting..not holding breath. Must find out if these exist in Aus. & how many million dollars they expect to sell them for. By the way, I looked at various steering quick releases, until the brain circuits kicked in & I decided..I dont have to escape in a hurry etc. Now I'm just going to make my own version with one base & a different adaptor for each wheel & locating pins + probably only One central hold down with allen key to tighten/loosen. I have the item sourced, its a furniture fastener with a wide flange & low profile. (So I wont injure myself in a prang!)

3 March 12, 15:42	#54
kikie Join Date: Jul 2008	I just got my pc back from the store and it seems to be a (nothing definitely) problem. I got my third wheel and I'm NOT going to plug it in my computer again. I had the opportunity to choose between the SRW S1 and a G27. I chose for the SRW S1 because this is a much better wheel than the G27. Does anyone know how to use the 3 other mounting holes at the back of the SRW S1?

3 March 12, 16:59	#55
bgis Join Date: Sep 2008	I,m going to use the 3 bosses on the back to carry the load on the mount. I plan on using hex head screws at the 3 points, the screw head is what goes into the boss. I can send you a picture or Autocad file if you want. Once I know for sure the wheel is not going to fail I,m adding a high quality velcro between plate and wheel for added strength. I want to stay away from the center screw hole if I can.

3 March 12, 18:03	#56
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	The best use I have seen of the 3 "knobs" on the TSW backside is this italian guy who have made a square adapterplate with 3 indentations fitting the "knobs". My plan is to follow him exactly but fasten this square plate(aluminium) to my quick release. This fastening part to the QR looks like piece of cake. And like the italian I will use the TSW center screw hole because to the contrary of bgis I have concluded that this center screw fastening is pretty straightforward. Because if you place a 4mm bolt into it you can feel that you get in contact with some kind of metal nut that is NOT glued or fastened to the plastic around. Its pretty loose because the nut fastening is some kind of flange(right word?) pressing from the inside of the plastic cover. My conclusion is that if you dont overtighten the center screw you have a pretty solid mount. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...62491031835953 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c4ee...eature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sa8XP...eature=related PS. My TSW is still working perfect kikie

4 March 12, 02:04	#59
bgis Join Date: Sep 2008	I didnt say that properly Bruno. What I mean is I want the load distributed and not just on the center screw itself.

4 March 12, 10:35	#60
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	OK that make sense. And you probably understand that I dont try to make a quarrel but just try to understand what your mounting strategy will be At the moment Im cursing the american idioti of not going metric. Because the 3 hex screws (Umbraco) on my Tyagi quick release are not metric. So its close to impossible here in Denmark to find a wrench fitting these screws. If you ask me then this kind of clinging to an archadic format is lousy provencial/arrogant. Hahaha. I can remember that I laughed to death when the american Mars unit crashed into the planets surface just because NASA had forgot to convert some metric values to their own archadic national format.

4 March 12, 13:24	#61
Stigasawus Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Drivers Seat,Australia Age: 64	Sadly, the links to Australian distributors are useless. Sometimes it feels a long way from the rest of the world down here, funny when its probably made in china like everything elseon the planet these days & thats not so far away, damnit!

5 March 12, 19:43	#64
Hitman_M3 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Valencia, Spain	Is it only me or does the wheel in the video show some lag in response?

5 March 12, 20:29	#65
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	My personal experience is that there is absolutely no lag/delay. And without knowing it I think that if you compare videos displaying this wheel with videos displaying other wheels a possible delay(!) will probably be less for this wheel because of the higher sensor bitrate.

10 March 12, 10:17	#67
Stigasawus Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Drivers Seat,Australia Age: 64	Looked for a way to email USA thanks Bruno...cant see one on their site. Might do better with their listed suppliers in Oz even though they dont seem to list it yet...maybe they need a shove!

11 March 12, 15:22	#69
kikie Join Date: Jul 2008	I'm back. I got my computer back since yesterday. The technician said that the motherboard was unstable. He upgraded the bios. I've been using this pc for the better part of today and until now, no problems at all (knock on wood). I'm afraid to plug in my (third ) wheel.

13 March 12, 08:47	#74
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	HW=HardWare

22 March 12, 15:48	#76
Hitman_M3 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Valencia, Spain	Bruno do you have a picture of how you attached the quick release hub to the TSW axis? Would be useful to me

23 March 12, 00:37	#77
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	I know it sounds like Im lazy but Im very slowly progressing because it has been almost impossible to fit the TSW axis into the Thrustmaster house - and be able to close it But today I succededed by lowering the TSW even further with a grinder. But because I still need to finish the custom center mechanism BEFORE I glue the quick release hex rod on the TSW axle (allready sawed the T piece off the axle) - I still havent attached(glued) the hex on the axle. My strategy will be to stick some small pieces of 1.6mm piano wire between axle and hex to make up for the dif in diameter( 16mm(hex inside) vs 12.5(TSW axle outside) and fix the 2 parts while the glue(Araldite) is hardening. The reason Im postponing the glueing is because the wheels final horisontal position is fully dependent of excact positioning of the wheel before glueing. My intention is to make a short picture documentation of the whole process. But I can allready see now that the full unit (mount + wheel) will look very prof attached on the desk

23 March 12, 19:03	#79
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	The hex´s in my kits (probably all kits) are made of steel so it could probably be welded (not soldered) to the axle as intended in a real racing car. But that would by garantee destroy the TSW ball bearings placed just 3-4cm away. But its not a problem. Because are you sure you know the strength of Araldite? The curved roofs in the Utzon Opera House in Sydney is glued with Araldite And they are a bit heavier than this tiny wheel. Araldite is one of the strongest glues in the world so it fits nicely to this project. OK?

23 March 12, 20:16	#80
Hitman_M3 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Valencia, Spain	I know it's a tough thing, but the problem is the diameter difference and the fact that you are rotating the wheel and not simply doing a linear force. I fear not that Araldite will not be strong enough, but that it will not be able to bite well to show its qualities.

24 March 12, 08:57	#81
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	I have allready prepared the 2 surfaces with grinder foil(?) so they stand pretty rough when they recieve the the Araldite. That should be perfect for the glueing process. The only real prob is to get the axle positioned right inside the hex because the dif in diameters. But Im pretty optimistic because I have allready tested the trick with the pieces of piano wire and its looking good. And not to scare others I can add that the only reason it has taken so long is because I have been so focused of getting it all to fit into the Thrustmaster box. Had I accepted not to be able to use the roof(top of the box) then I had probabl finished the project month ago.

24 March 12, 10:00	#82
Stigasawus Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Drivers Seat,Australia Age: 64	Sounds a bit like you guys are using what I call the Braille method on this wheel. Warranty or not I cannot resist pulling things apart carefully in reverse order to what I think they must have been assembled until I think I understand them (eg the nut you think is inside). I'd like to know that I was spreading the load or maybe sandwiching weak plastic between metal, to spread the load. Plastic has a habit of dissapearing when something is loose (like that nut). Hope this thing is not glued together or you might have to drive with your fingers crossed. Dont you hate it when manufacturers use tricks, like fancy screw heads, to keep us dummys out. Interesting to follow your adventures.

24 March 12, 17:27	#83
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	When I have finished and tested my wheel and mount I have decided to open the wheel myself. Mainly to finetune the clicking point of the 2 gearshift switches. On both you have to push about 10mm before shifting. And that is too much if you are driving for milisecs in a league I can allready now tell you that this wheel is not glued together or other crazy things to make it impossible to open. The backplate is pretty simple fixed with some normal looking hex bolts. Conserning the strenght of the central fixing screw I have allready tested it. Because I have allready mounted my quick release hub via the alu plate I have created with indentation for the positions points on the wheel. The strength of the central fixing bolt(nut) is more than adequate. The only way of ripping the wheel of the qRelease will be to use so much force that the whole backplate is twisted off.

31 March 12, 06:41	#84
bgis Join Date: Sep 2008	Wow not impressed at all!. i have been waiting for my aluminum back plate to come back from being milled by a friend. My wheel has been sitting unplugged and I decide to give it a go without a mount. Dead .........plug it in and half the lights flash once and then no recognition in control panel. It does the same thing every time , I can plug and unplug and it gives the flash windows recognition beep then dies. So far I have spent about $80 on alum plate, casting material to make a mold and acrylic resin to fill it. Bruno I hope yours is OK and stays that way.......dont unplug it !!

31 March 12, 07:38	#85
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	I have just accomplished my mission yesterday. Wheel and mount are functioning 110%. And it is looking absolutely amazing when its fixed on the table. I have just burrowed a camera today and will be publishing pictures of the whole process monday as a kind of assembling manual/documentary. But at the moment Im just enjoying it. Trying to get the same driving feeling as I have using my 10 years old(more Thrustmaster Modena wheel. And to repeat myself. The L/R & thr/brake movement and the SRW-S1 wheel is so fu...ng smooth. Its pretty bloody fantastic on a mount.

31 March 12, 11:50	#86
bgis Join Date: Sep 2008	Thats great Bruno I am really looking forward to getting my mount finished. The way my wheel is acting I think it could be a cold solder joint problem. I applied for an RMA number from Bestbuy so i hope to have a new wheel in a few days. Just sitting here ready to pack up my wheel and you sure are right about the break and gas. The gear selectors have a nice solid feel and nice click to them also. Looking forward to some photos of your build. I will post a few when mine gets done ...it feels like it,s taking forever. Enjoy yourself man it,s well earned

1 April 12, 16:42	#89
Hitman_M3 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Valencia, Spain	That looks truly professional Bruno, good job!

4 April 12, 05:53	#92
bgis Join Date: Sep 2008	Hello Bruno I had my wheel replaced by Bestbuy, they carry it in store now so at least I did,nt have to wait for shipping. I,m still waiting on my back plate and figured I,m tired of waiting so I started making one with a hockey puck. I should have it going by tomorrow night ..........can,t wait . I noticed something in the small instruction paper that comes with the wheel that is either new or I missed it first time. Says they are selling an optional desk mount and points to the mount points on the back. Does your paper show that ?

4 April 12, 07:42	#94
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	@Stiga.. You never know who come around @Bgis This notice has been there all from the beginning. And some of the reviewers have refered to it as something to come. But Simraceway are silent.

6 April 12, 10:16	#95
BrunoB Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Denmark, Jutland Age: 68	SRW-S1 future project I had never imagined that I should post this But the friction/damping in my TSW axle is so low(zero) that its close to impossible not to "overshoot"/overcorrect when you are saving a slide. Bear in mind that I have been racing for 10 years+ with the mentioned undamped Modena wheel. So this is a complete surprise for me. The only advantage with the SRW wheel is that because the reaction time is so low and the resolution so high your driving correction starts faster. My own conclusion is that because the Modena had no ball bearings there was some kind of "automatic" damping of the L/R movement that did help not to overshoot so much. So eventhough I have allways advocated the advantage of a non-FF wheel against the goofy and complete unrealistic FF solutions on the marked today (except some few custom designed direct-drive wheels) I am now a bit closer to consider that my next project should be a direct-drive FF unit using my cute SRW-S1 wheel. Because then you could tune the damping to something as in real life. That would be something.

8 April 12, 09:27	#96
Stigasawus Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Drivers Seat,Australia Age: 64	Lower tyre pressures?

8 April 12, 19:04	#98
Hitman_M3 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Valencia, Spain	As I already suggested some posts ago, try using dampers instead of springs to provide return force.

12 April 12, 10:45	#100
bgis Join Date: Sep 2008	Bruno in case you missed it, the sensitivity dial on the wheel makes a big difference in the feel. I also had problems untill I set it to 3 clicks off of the 360 mark . I dont know how the numbering goes. In the Simraceway game the setup shows your wheel movement and I just moved the dial untill it matched with the movement on screen.